http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=6671

Here's the tumbler from the donor lock in front of the lock from 1351

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=6670

Here's the donor lock showing the tumbler and the mainspring stop

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=6673

Here's a pick of the donor rebounding lock. Notice the mainspring resting on the stop and the rounded bottom of the tumbler.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=6672

A pic of the finished locks for 1351. All done with the lock repair

Now for a question...
I am either going to have to find a replacement trigger guard for a straight grip, or I'll have to have the original welded back to the screw portion (See page two of this thread). Welding will require cleaning and polishing. This will remove patina from the trigger guard (Same goes for the trigger plate also on page 2). If I go this route, is there any way to accurately "antique" the metal? That trigger guard will look really weird all shiny and new against the rest of this metal.

Also, I need a replacement for the non original hammer screw (Top of page three of this thread). First of all, which one's the original, and secondly who wants to "donate" one (or two) to the cause? :whistle:


Thoughts?

Tom Carter makes hammer screws that are perfect duplicates.

Have the trigger guard welded. The later ones are slightly different.

"Patina" can be applied.

For that early of a gun, either hammer screw pictured could be considered correct. The very early screws had more to f a domed head. Some had a out lip and some did not. The engraving on both screws is correct for a grade 2.

The trigger plate repair would be at the back under the trigger guard when it is installed, so it wouldn't really show when all is said and done.

The broke location of the trigger guard will make for a delicate repair and file work to dress it down, but it will not stick out like a sore thumb in that area. And you can add patina in multiple ways.

What profession lends itself to fine welding of the type needed for such a delicate repair. We have a machine shop in town that might work. Any suggestions?

Thanks Dean and Brian for your help. I'm interested to learn more about how to patina metal, can anyone point me to some resources for learning how?

I'm sending the screw and locks to Tom today. Thanks Dean Romig for the
recommendation.
Now onto the hard part... The wood!