Paul I think we can get most powers down here. We have a shooting club on the other side of town. And everyone down here has gone gun nuts. Mostly pistol and rifles that can shoot 20 miles with a 2 in group and holds 75 rounds in the clip. I looked for Cbers. What is that. I googled it with no results never mind I see clay busters lol. I am learning

Paul. I checked out circle fly. I'm sure I will be ordering fiber also. From what I understand you to say. I just drop my powder in the hull then cut fiber wad so the shot is flush with the fold line when setting on top of the wad. Then crimp. Can a fiber wad be to long?? Can pushing a fiber wad or any wad for that matter to hard cause the powder to ignite?? Also will fiber cause more recoil ?? Than plastic

Gentlemen. I wanted to say thanks for the years of experience you shared on this subject, it has really helped me a lot and sent me in the right direction. Like I said I loaded pistol rounds. As a matter of fact my closet is full of them. But in learning to load with pistols 45acp I am a stickler for published loads with stats. My findings are American select for powder. Our local range has it on the shell. I called a guy I hunted quail out in west Texas about 10 yrs ago to see if he had any imr 7625. If he does he isn't telling. Anyway American select for powder. With either a 3/4 or 7/8 oz shot I guess I will load these in a Winchester aa cut down as Alliant has a receipt for it. And it seems to be less pressure with the aa hull than the others. I also can use my rst ( cheddite ) with a cheddite 1oz load for hunting @ about 6000 psi if I remember. The smaller loads were like 5200 psi I think. Provided it doesn't change by cutting down the shell they call for. But I just wanted to thanks everyone See you in the field. Kirk.

Kirk

I may have missed something in the exchanges . To be clear the stack with fiber wads loads goes in this order

Powder charge

Nitro card used as it comes, it's what provides the gas seal. Needs to fit the hull width. You can buy them thick or thin.

Fiber wad split to make your stack height come out right. How the hull Crimps Or rolls will tell you how thick the fiber wad needs to be

Shot

If you fold crimp you are done

If you plan to roll crimp add over shot wad before rolling.

The fiber wads, able to split to size, allow varying powder and shot charges to come out to the proper stack height. They have some spring or compression ability, makes for a nice tight load.

Make sense ?

William

William
Makes perfect sense. I will be loading plastic and fiber it seems. I have never cut one open to see how it all stacks in there. But that explains it. I read where people put this card and that in a load and wasn't sure. I am pretty sure that I would like to load some with fiber wad for skeet and maybe quail. With the up close shot it seems to give a quicker spread. For ducks and dove a little tighter pattern for longer shots. Thanks for the info.

Yes. Over on shotgungunworld.com in the reloading forum their are guys who like both. I feel there's less trouble with the Jr because there's nothing to go wrong with it, where as with the collet, if dirt or shot get down in the collet it's trouble. For me, the Jr won't resize high brass shells - can't get the shell to drop back out of the resizing ring. The sizemaster will resize high brass. There's good and bad points for each, but both resize low brass shells good. Maybe someone else has good luck with high brass in the Jr and will comment.

Kirk, William explained it pretty well. If you're reloading to max pressures then you'd want to stick to published loads. Most of us are fooling around at the low end of the scale. so there's room to play around a little. We're just telling you what works for us. All fiber wads in a load will have less pressure than the same load with plastic wads because the fiber doesn't seal as good. In old reloading manuals, when plastic wads were first used and all the data was for fiber wads, they said to reduce loads by 10% if using plastic. I'm not telling anyone else to do it, but I at times increase powder charges by 1 gr or so when subbing in fiber wads. JMHO

I am loading 200 short 10s now. While I keep the lots separate am using mixed hulls 50 at a time. Federal Remington and Cheddites . The Cheddites have weak brass and thin rims. Primer knock out and size station on my 600 with the short kit bends some causing problems closing the gun and extracting. This is not a issue with American Hulls. A Mec size-master would cure the problem but I don't have one.

Ended up buying a 10 G die and base holder for my 12 G PW 375 size, knock out the old primer and re prime. Then push the hull out of the die with a short Denrin Rod dropped in the hull and pushed by the 12 G Hull knock out station. It's supposed to work on a loaded hull too short to knock out empty primed, reason for the rod.

Then back to the Mec 600 charge, wads, shot and fold crimp

Point is would have been better to start with a size-master. This may not be an issue with smaller gauges and if using quality hulls not with 10 G. Still,if you can find one Mec size master is the better press. Like Paul I don't like keeping collet sizers clean, get a pellet in one it shuts,you down. But like most things presses are not perfect. And PW won't make a short Kit for the PW 375.

William

Kirk I PM you with my load using Clays/International clays powder.

Thanks for the info