One thing I was going to add was touched on by Edgar, allow the tool/hull to warm up before applying the pressure to work in the roll crimp. That is key. The other is the condition of the hull mouth. Can't have any fold crimp remnants left over or the roll will be very ugly. That never happened to me, but I did read about it once! :whistle: :eek:

Honestly, I've thought of those devices also. One good thing about them, is that a corded hand drill has more low speed torque than one of the inexpensive mini bench drill presses. You can slow the hand drill down to a desired speed, whereas the mini drill presses only go down to about 800-1000rpm, and don't have the torque when rolling the larger, i.e. 8,10 and even 12ga hulls. A friend bought a mini to roll 10ga and it stalls it or the belt slips (can't remember which he said).
Another good thing about the devices that hold your hand drill aside from the low entry cost, is they take up very little space on the loading bench. In fact, I think I just talked myself into one.

Think you talked me into one as well.

And PS…I see you are in Bloomfield. I work in Bloomfield, live in West Hartford. Maybe I’ll see you around at the local clubs!

I have seen this too about the mini press not having the torque, I watched a video of a guy using one to roll crimp and it would keep stopping the motor or the belt would slip.

The problem I could see with that particular guide is its 3/8"s. My PR roll crimper is 3/8s so when I tried to use it in a hand drill the chuck had no room to actually tighten down on it so it would just spin, having a 1/2" press fixed that though.

My idea was to get one of those guides and attach a old style hand crank drill to it like one of these https://www.amazon.com/hand-crank-dr...nd+crank+drill seems like you would basically have something that works like a old school roll crimper but vertically and you could change out crimp heads and do any gauge.

The press I have from Tractor Supply will run at 760 RPM on the low speed. I haven’t had it bog down/stall on my 10 or 12g hulls.

Third time trying my four pin roll crimper last night. Loaded up four to try with 1 5/8oz #5 shot, a nitro card, and a 100 grains of FG. Left the hulls longer this time. Figured I’d leave some extra hull length in case I have any cracking around the crimp area after the shot I have some extra to work with. I’ll seal them up with a little clear nail polish and try them out next week.

https://i.imgur.com/0LgKhjc.jpg

Sealed and numbered….


https://i.imgur.com/dgwkS4I.jpg

So that is clear nail polish inside your hull that looks like wad protruding above your OS card?

No wad used. My roll crimp is folded all thr way down to the OS card.


I just lightly brush the outer edge where the OS card and roll crimp meet to waterproof them. Then I brush an extremely light coat over the center of the OS card to completely seal it. Figure it will help keeping moisture and rain out if the weather doesn’t cooperate out in the turkey woods. Never tested it in wet conditions yet but used my #6 loads brushed the same way to collect a double bearded Gobbler last year. I didn’t seal them all the way to the top of hull if that’s what you were asking. I think the flash of my camera made the inside of my hull crimps look shiny. Photo without the flash still looks a bit shiny….

https://i.imgur.com/g5JBvAa.jpg

I used a little vaseline in roll pin crimper. Could be shiny yet from the lube even though I wiped it out, and, or, the hull might have shined up from the friction from the crimp process im guessing.

Ben, I tried a couple of the mini drill presses, both now reside in a scrap metal bin. I went with a hand drill and ended up making a drill guide with a 1/2" Jacobs chuck and stops on both rails. Got the consistent finished length and pressure on OSC I wanted as well as the crimp consistently "square" to the hull. Finished shells are very uniform and look correct. My power tool is a 1/2" drill/driver and I run it on the driver setting. Tons of torque and doesn't want to burn or melt the hulls. I think all that are successful with this has gotten there by trial and error! If it works good it IS good.

This is by no means a critique, but rather an honest question(s): how much distance is between the finished top of your hull wall where the crimp rolls to the OS card? And is that much of a gap OK? Any performance issue? Or does that mean rather you should be adding filler to minimizes that gap? Again, honest question, because of that gap is OK, then why would I bother with a filler?

I don’t have the shells with me to measure but I would say there is a little less than a half inch of Measurement on the fold crimp. I was pondering the same question on how much is too much. I’m guessing it makes no difference in patterning. I can tell you it makes zero difference in fitting into my SxS. My loaded shell is still over a half inch short of my 2 & 7/8” chamber length. I could have trimmed my shell down further to have less so my Extra hull length would be closer to the lead shot payload but figured I’d try it like this and give it a try. I would guess if loading in something other than a SxS or single shot there could be cycling issues because the crimp is out far enough that it’s not supported by the payload of lead shot. I’m curious myself so that’s a good question. I have seen slugs with a lot deeper roll crimps then my loads. I would say it might increase the pressure a little? My powder charge is less than than a square load and loaded with FG so I’m not worried about a pressure spike. Hopefully someone will chime in and let me know if I did something wrong.

Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on in a while. I've seen some questions on the thread about crimping. When roll crimping with my crimper I recommend using some lube like a small drop of oil to the outside mouth of the case or even a small amount of vaseline dabbed in the crimper itself with a q-tip. That's the way I test them all and the way I crimp my shells. I don't recommend dry crimping. As far as rpm I see people using different rpm with success, but I actually use the same rpm for all gauges on the drill press I use to spot check crimpers as I make them. I can't check every crimper because when I make them I make them many at a time, but I hold tolerance close to keep them all as close to the same as possible. The rpm on the drill press I use isn't clearly marked so I just ordered a laser tachometer to check it and will get back with you as soon as I get the number. I've been wanting to know the exact rpm myself for a while. Your best rpm may be different though because I also don't have every hull out there to test. I appreciate all of you who use my tools. I would love to hear about what you use your loads for and any game taken with them. I try to make the best tools I can and every one is made 100% by myself. Down to taking crimpers home and spending hours deburring each by hand under a lighted magnifying lamp. Thanks again!

I'm super glad to learn of your roll crimpers, Nick. This is just another example of the value of fine forums like this one. Information is so easily shared and garnered.

I, too, searched for really good crimpers, not knowing of yours. A hunting friend from Savannah who is well versed in French shotgunning things gave me a .410 roll crimper that is made in France. It is finely made and does a great job, also. It is the only gauge made by them that I have, and yours will be so much more easily obtained. Thanks for offering them, and thanks Edgar for the heads up!

The rpm I use on the press clocked at 480. When spot checking crimpers on hulls I actually use that same setting from .410 all the way to 8 gauge. You may need a different one again. The main thing I would stress is use lube. I use tap magic when making and checking crimpers simply because I'm in a machine shop and it's there. Gun oil would work too. A small drop will do. I dab of Vasoline from a q-tip inside the crimper will last for a few shells before needing to add more. By the way if you like watching youtube videos Jeff of Taofledermaus uses my crimper exclusively. Look up the "Tsar Bomba" slug video he put up a year or so ago.

Picked this vintage press up today for a whopping $9! The matching vintage craftsman drill was laying next to it for another $3. I cleaned both up inside and out. The press is smooth and depending how lightly I squeeze the drill trigger it barely spins to full throttle completely pressed. My plan is to put a hose clamp or zip tie around the drill handle and trigger. I’ll tighten the clamp, or tie, till I get the RMP I prefer. It does have a trigger lock. I’ll have to see if it spins to fast locked into position first. I’ll then plug the cord into a power strip so I can turn the power on and off with a flip of a switch. Hopefully the drill holds up for a while. I took it completely apart to lube and clean. If the drill eventually gives up its ghost I have a few corded and cordless drills laying around. If it works it will save me calling my buddy to make arrangements to use his and driving 8 blocks to use his drill press along with my 4 pin roller. I only load a couple dozen 10 gauge a year at most so I would assume it will last a long time. I will have to see if I can find some old directions to make sure I have it mounted correctly and to make sire I’m not missing any parts.

https://i.imgur.com/V2CL2yk.jpg

I played with the drill enough now that the points are not catching properly. It seems to vary its speeds up and down by itself and then shut off. I’ll stick one of my modern drills in the press for the time being.

A "Wall Hanger", will look great on the wall in the garage! But I think you did well on the press. I was looking for something similar a while back and found mostly import junk. Certainly nothing as well built as that old Craftsman. That thing will wear out a couple of drills and still be kickin'.

I almost passed on the drill to begin with but grabbed it because it was laying next to the press. Your right about that press. It’s built like a tank. Figured it will outlast me. I looked at some of modern presses that accept a drill. They look like dollar store imports that would probably not make it through a session of crimping before it failed.

Corey, I can't remember if you said, but you may be better off with a newer drill if you're rolling plastic hulls. Speed helps get the case lip warm for a nice turnover, and as well as they were made, the older corded drills don't turn up all too fast.

Yep, I’m doing plastic hulls. Been reloading modern 2 7/8” RST spent hulls for my Charles Daly SxS 10 gauge and also 3.5” 10 gauge for my browning gold Turkey federation 10 gauge with modern spent 3.5” Winchester and federal plastic hulls. . Appreciate the tip. Was pulling my hair out to get the drill working. Won’t sweat it now. I have a newer craftsman I bought about 4/5 years ago that’s corded. Also have a cordless craftsman. The corded one will go in place of it. It has a good amount of torque.

Something you might consider is an added foot switch for the rig. The drill's cord plugs into it, and the switch's cord plugs into the outlet, via a piggyback plug. Works great for drill presses where you are having to hold something with one hand and work the drill press handle with the other. I find it speeds things up so that the crimper doesn't cool down much between shells, even in my old cold shop.

I put one on my bench top drill press at least 25 years ago and have never unhooked it. Very nice to have. Similar to this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LN9F6JV...2-587d01f975e8

I installed a craftsman drill I bought new about five or six years ago. I put a zip tie around it and the back of the brace that adjusts the angle. Its pretty solid now. I’ll leave the drill in it permanently. I have three cordless drills to keep my other projects busy. Still have to get a foot pedal or some type of switch.

https://i.imgur.com/ynUWUWO.jpg

What did a man do before duct tape and tiewraps? (baling wire and chewing gum?)

that's a neat set up....charlie

The drill press works great! I loaded up ten, 3 1/2 inch, 10 gauge yesterday. I have to say the drill spins too fast of RPMs with the zip tie tightened all the way down on the Trigger. I think I melted some of the crimp folds. Next time around I won’t pull the zip tie as tight to slow the RPMs down a bit. I also didn’t smooth out the crimp folds with a heat gun before I cut them so they don’t look as pretty as my other crimps. I just made a few to go out and test and sight in the new Holosun green dot I mounted on my Browning gold 10 gauge so they didn’t have to be pretty. I’ll take my time on round two with them. Loaded up 8 with 2oz of number 5 copper plated lead and 2 with 2oz of lead #2’s along with 36 grains of HS-6. I traded for some shot that was supposed to be number fives and the guy who sent it to me sent me a number two lead shot instead. I don’t know what I want I will end up using the number twos for since I can’t use them for turkey hunting here in Wisconsin. Guess maybe for crows and coyotes?

https://i.imgur.com/pNbRaTN.jpg

I have found i can easily do plastic crimps at 1200 rpm with no vise if i put a dap of butchers wax in the tool. The wax makes it much easier as it is grabby without and wants to torque the thin plastic hulls. Anything slower works but feels glacial now. Perhaps this will help someone. I dont have experience with paper it may require slower speeds

I use Vaseline inside my four pin roll crimper. I’ve tried doing it with a power drill and holding a shell in my other hand. After about a five minute try or so with each one and getting it to crimp I’ll pass. My hands are cramped up and in pain and felt like they went through a war! Best nine bucks ever spent I just gotta slow my drill down. Takes all the couple seconds to do a crimp with the press. At the higher RPMs they just get hot too quick and the crimp will melt. Slowed down a little will get them perfect.

I have used mica and it seems to work.
I dont remember the rpm my press is set at I believe around 650.
I have found a 200 rpm press for under $400 that would be interesting to try.
You can technically buy a hand crank press and would have like a traditional roll crimper but vertical.

I found a vintage AMI Co. “open all” today for $3 at the “re store” shop. I figured it was gonna be close for whether the end grip was going to grab 10 gauge hulls or not. It looks like it was about an inch and diameter in the front. Anywhere near a 10 gauge hull right now but a quarter. I googled the size it’s .955”. Just a hair too big in the front to grab a quarter but in the middle of the handle I can grab anything I might have to modify that nice vintage antique grab all and grind just hair off of each side the “pliers looking” ends so it will grip a .779 hull with authority. Figured that would sure save my hands from cramping while I’m trying to keep a hull from spinning. I’m sure I could grab the outside of the brass lip with it and probably be fine but I’d rather grab the plastic hull.

https://i.imgur.com/UNYiMb6.jpg

Figure I can grab a hull, as is, in the middle

https://i.imgur.com/UZ2gNBw.jpeg

Or maybe I’ll grind just a little bit off of each “pincher tip” so it will grab a 10 gauge hull in the front circle with some authority.

https://i.imgur.com/lmtOPFq.jpg

You can see perfectly flush a quarter will just drop through it and that measures .955 inch. I need to get it below .779” obviously for a 10 gauge hull. I would guess if I grind off each of the pinching ends a little I’ll get there.


I found some plastic learning chips at the dollar store the other day. 75 of them for a buck and a quarter. They sure work for the 10 gauge. I figured it’ll be a little bit more durable than a cardboard, overshot card and definitely waterproof. I turned them around and gave them a couple of really hard taps on my hand and buffer did not come out so they sealed up pretty good. I can hear shot rattle so they’re not as tight as it would be if I use the cardboard overshot card but I’m sure I probably could put cardboard underneath the plastic clear shot card and have a nice waterproof load for hunting.

https://i.imgur.com/boCzJ5p.jpg

Here’s a couple I did in black powder the other day too next to a factory RST shell. I also added a plastic shot cuff and some buffer to see if I can tighten up my old standby load.

https://i.imgur.com/qdMQ2z7.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/9ep2nJU.jpeg

Be sure to pattern test the shells with those plastic chips as an overshot card. It doesn't take much of anything over the shot to create a spreader load. I found a thin nitro card, .0125, over the shot and under a fold crimp will reduce a pattern by as much as 30% at 40 yards.

Will do I think I’m also gonna load some up today with the hulls cut a little longer so I put a nitro card between the charge and plastic shot cup. Then I might try a card board OS card over the top.


It’s my normal 100 grain charge of FG with 1 5/8 oz of shot I use for turkey. Instead of using a half-inch nitro card I eliminated it and added a BPI tough wad that I slit all four pedals down to the base and then I trimmed the wad down to 1.458 inches. I also removed about 13 grains of shot and added back in 13 grains of original buffer just trying to tighten up my load pattern because I’m not really impressed with anything I’ve gotten so far tight enough for what I would call a good turkey hunting load past 25 yards.
I will pattern halfway decent 40 yards but I figured a plastic shot. Cuff and buffer might be the answer.

I don’t have a way to fold crimp so roll crimping is my only option currently.

I’ll be curious to see which one patterns better. From what I’ve read those plastic OS cards are supposed to shatter when firing and just blow out of the way I guess I’ll find out the pattern board will tell me all.

Got a little fancy with my load today. I loaded up a few to try with my normal hundred grain charge of FG and a 15/8oz load. Instead of using a half inch nitro card. I ended up using an 8th inch thick nitro card that I split down from a quarter inch nitro card. I didn’t use the BPI tough wad cut down to 1.458 inches and slit all four pedals to the base. Took about eight #5 pellets out and added the weight back in with BPI original buffer. He did put a thin piece of question wide inside the shot cup and then I added one to the top of it to keep the buffer from coming out. I also put a cardboard over the top and roll crimped it. Hopefully it tightens up my load with the buffer and plastic shot cup. Anyways, here’s a picture of my role crimps they turned out really nice. Using Winchester hulls i’m guessing a rebranded Chedite. They are super soft and started bulging just above the brass so I have to watch it when I roll crimp them. Loaded up at 3 1/2 inch the same hall a half an hour later and basically crushed the top of the hall so I had to pull it and start over with a fresh hull. Never had that happen before roll crimping I’m wondering if I just didn’t have enough lube in my four pin roller???

https://i.imgur.com/XSnMb2N.jpg