"Shallow" is not the problem. Diameter is the problem. One of our members owns a 28 gauge rim cutter and forcing cone cutter which he lent to me several years ago. It took me about 20 seconds to take care of the problem in two guns. It was much easier than the setup I did on a Bridgeport vertical mill about forty years ago for my first 28 gauge. Let me know.

You're very kind, Mike. I was always taught to respect my elders. Kindness aside, Birmabrite (aircraft Aluminium) had not been perfected for the skin of aircraft at that time. Cotton Canvas was all they knew. I'm certain that's where Daryl learned to appreciate those shorts he sports. Still, he is a legend, and in Churchill's memoirs of WW2, he was bemoaning that there weren't more flyers like 'Capt. Corona' He went on to say how much he appreciated, as a young man, the Captain teaching him how to smoke a fine cigar.

Dave and Kevin, as Monsignor Murphy pointed out, at least in the case of my VH, and his own, that it is the diameter that is causing the rims to stick in the recess. The depth seems ok, but I will be recutting the rim recess this week in any case. It couldn't be more appropriate that I will be using Hayes' personal rim cutter to accomplish this.

But was Hayes’ rim cutter made to the later wider size?





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Just call me Snoopy!

Now that you mention it Mike, my skills do lean towards the sporty Spitfire.:whistle:

Dean, you beat me to it. Hayes' rim cutter may be the pre 1906 model. I hope Edgar isn't too proud to ask me who I borrowed one from. He's a great guy and would be willing to lend it out again. By the way, its a full chamber and forcing cone reamer in one. I checked the price and you don't want to buy one.

Next time I see him, I'll ask. I do know that I loaned to another member who reported back that it was perfect. I do not believe there was a "later wider size" but do know that early rim recesses were shallower.

Yes Bill, I was looking at new ones in Clymers catalog. Like the Hayes tool, the Clymer tool is Just for cutting the rim recess. It is not a chamber reamer.

Spitfires and MGBs are your style my friend!!

The one I used, whether it was a Clymer or a Manson, cut all the way up, including the rim recess. It was a very light cut on the forcing cone, didn't take any metal off my cones.

The DH I used to have 1903 (see Avatar) would have trouble closing on new shells and if it would close, would be verry difficult to open. Some different manufacturers new shells would work just fine, some not. The problem seemed to be the brass rim. If there was a slight radius between the wall and rim, it wouldn't seat right. If it was almost a 90 degree angle, they worked fine. I had the rim cut worked on by Dewey.

I'm way to young to know about those planes.

I have a Clymer 12ga rim recess reamer I got to ream out my DH12 that has issues with Win AA hulls that have out of round rims. It has no issues with Rem STS hulls or old paper hulls. I've never reamed it yet because when you slide the pilot into the chamber and put the reamer cutters against the breech it's clear that the breech is not cut orthogonal to the bore center line as the cutting teeth aren't hitting evenly. This is assuming, of course, that the reamer is properly machined, which is not guaranteed. I can't see where the breech wouldn't be orthogonal to the bore. Anyone ever see this before? My cure for the DH12 has been to never shoot AA hulls in it. My 28ga Repro sticks with AA hulls also, sometimes seriously enough that you can't get it open without gently clamping it in a rubber jawed vise just enough to allow releasing the lever and opening it. So, I don't shoot the newer AA HS hulls in that one either. Vintage paper shells have nice round rims and work just fine.