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I figured the recoil pad was not factory. No idea where the original is. It's what's been on it for some time. I think I will join PGCA and get a letter. Thanks Mr. Books!
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So, ignorant me, would this gun likely take a 2 1/2 shell, low pressure?
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I cut my pheasant hunting teeth on a 1914 Parker Trojan No. 167347 in 1960 - 1963 using off-the-shelf heavy duck and pheasant loads. I was 12 or 13 when I started shooting it and it clobbered me pretty hard and I didn’t like shooting it but it was “big medicine” on those big birds... and more effective than my single shot Stevens 20.
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140 years old and in frequent use for pheasant and prairie grouse.
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I would be perfectly happy with just my Trojan 12 & 20. One of the things that brought a smile to my face is the checkering on you family Parker has been worn thin. Everyone on this form has heard the following too many times, but my father found a new Trojan 20 under the Christmas tree when he still believed in Santa. It's checkering pattern is visible though smooth to the touch. I picked up a 12 to give the 20 some company and have been shooting sporting clay and wobble trap all winter with it. Again when going over the metal with the Frontier pad and Hoppe's No.9. I would wipe the Hoppe's on and let it sit for a day. I wouldn't scrub the gun with the pad, but just lightly go over the metal. Here is a picture of the honest wear on Papa's Trojan 20.
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You can scrub rust spots and grunge with the Frontier pad with no damage to blueing or case color, but Harry’s suggestion of letting the Hoppe’s sit on those spots for a day or two is a good one.
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