If power means bird killing power you will get it from larger shot and more pellets on target. High initial velocity 1250-1350 FPS slows to velocity just a bit faster than 1150-1180 FPS loads arriving on target at distance. Not enough faster to make much difference. Much more pressure with higher velocity .

Opinion worth what it cost if the tested 23-24 grs of Green dot 1 1/4 oz large shot won’t kill your turkey better to get a modern gun and use magnum shells. Refer to the link I posted few pages back collective experience with that load and tested pressures shown.

Also note 19 Gr Was the heaviest Red Dot Load test published on this forum. Don’t confuse it with heavier Green Dot loads GD is a slower powder more suitable for heavier shot weights.

Willam

I have recently purchased a very nice 1894 Remington 10ga w/ steel barrels-that uses 2 5/8 shells.
Im an avid reloading person but new to older shotguns such as the one I mentioned above. Can some one help me to get started properly? At this time I would like to stay with smokeless powder.
thank you,
pb

I shoot a 1882 Remington 10ga with Damascus barrels. You could look at my loads from page 2 of this thread. Use a mild primer such as a Win, 19grs of Promo or Red Dot, a Rem SP-10 wad, enough 16ga fiber wads in the bottom of the plastic wad to give you the correct load height in the shell for a good crimp. A 1 1/8oz of shot will use less fiber wads than a 1oz load. At one time I had a Parker lifter that had stepped 2 5/8 chambers so I cut a number of shells 2 5/8. It just was a problem with 2 5/8 and 2 7/8 shells, so I ended up cutting them all to 2 5/8. Back to your question - any light 12ga load, say 8000psi and under, will work in the 10ga. There'll be less pressure even subbing in different wads.

Paul:
What do you think of the "Parker" reproduction full length bass cases, using smokless powder ? It would seem they have a long life period (perhaps only with black powder they use in them)

Pat

I tried smokeless with brass Magtecks and never could get them to work - bloopers. The ones you're talking about have thicker walls and a base, more like a modern shotgun shell. So what's different? The crimp is all that's left. The military has/had all brass shells loaded with buck shot, and they worked. I believe they had a slight roll crimp and someone makes a after market roll crimper for brass shells. But now you're kind a defeating one of the reasons for using brass shells. JMHO, but after so many roll crimps the shell is going to fail on the end and you'd have to cut some off. Would it make a difference in your life time ? I have no idea. If you don't roll crimp you have to glue in the OS card. I believe Charlie has had some success with that. I never did. With BP you won't have any problems. If you ever get a copy of Accurate powders reloading booklet they have a section in there about the importance of crimps and how shotgun shells develop their pressure. Brass shells look kool but plastic shells are cheaper and more available. Start em at 2 7/8 and cut em down as needed. Good luck.

will the 19gr red dot load be ok with cheddite or paper hulls using just fibre wads. I will be loading with over powder wad- a couple of fibre wads to fill hull - shot - over shot wad and roll crimp. Be shooting in a remington 1882 with fluid steel barrels 10ga.

They should work fine. As long as you have proper tight wads.

Yes I have proper tight wads. I have a bunch loaded with black but I have lots of red dot and would like to load some up. Would like to get Peters spread sheet nut cant seem to open it up.

Scott-

the file is a PDF format - have you down loaded a PDF reader? Adobe offers a PDF reader that is a free download

I dont even see a link in his post for the spreadsheet. I tried on my phone and computer. Anyway this red dot load should keep my in ammo for awhile!!