Robin, it may be helpful to explain that the keels are tapered triangular wedges such that the further the barrels are cut back, the more the solder shows.

OK, it is taking form and I hope will help someone someday. Here is what we have so far.:corn:

HTML clipboardThe misinformation regarding barrel matting termination to determine cut barrels is one of the most pervasive misconceptions for new Parker collectors. There is an expectation that rib matting stops at the front bead and a bar of un-matted rib is found from the front bead to the rib's end. No bar at the end of the matting and a flag goes up! No bar at the rib's end is a viable guideline, but not an absolute rule.

Most of the time, but not always, expect to find the two barrels touching at the muzzle end for un-cut barrels. But sometime to get barrels regulated to shoot to point of aim wedges were inserted to separate barrels and other times some cut barrels may touch. Again, barrels touching is a guideline and not a rule.

On uncut barrels, the space between the barrels and the ribs at the muzzle end should have visible triangular metal filler strips, called keels, and not simply solder. Cut barrels may or may not have visible keels, because the original keels were tapered triangular wedges about one and a half inches in length and depending on the barrel length removed, some length of keel may still be present. Shortened keels would "probably" have more solder showing than normal because of their taper allowing more solder area to be visable. No keels at all indicates cut barrels.

If in doubt, measure the bore diameter, the length of chokes, the actual barrel length, and if possible, check the factory production information. If the chokes are 4 inches or longer and the bore diameter is factory, it is likely that the barrels are uncut. But, even the factory letter can get it wrong on occasion.

There are factory original Parker barrels that are +/- 1/8" of what is stated or standard. 27 7/8" barrels are not necessarily cut, as is the case with 28 1/8" barrels.

The internal dimensions of the bores and chokes are probably the clearest indicators.

Robin,To add to the discussion....

Hey Robin, Sorry if I sounded terse in the last reply. I think the points you condensed are very valuable and helpful for us all to have as a reference point to go to. You stated quite succinctly the issues raised. I found myself drawn into the conversations here as the topic matter is valid and interesting, but I was supposed to be staying on task at work, so I got in a hurry with my response. I sometimes sound harsh when hurrying. If I did, I did not mean to. Good stuff and helpful, Thanks,

Jay,

Not a problem.... I didn't notice that you were terse?

I though the topic was ripe for the FAQ web page and everyone helped to pull this one together.

When I think of FAQ, I think it should be aimed at someone very, very novice and it is sometimes difficult to present something like this so that it doesn't get so detailed a novice can't follow along. I feel this one is good for everyone, I learned a few things while watching this thread.

Thanks very much for your input! It was very interesting.

Muzzles
 

Robin; You have hit it pretty well on the nose

Best Austin

The FAQ will be helpful for novices (like me) in understanding the matting or keel indicators of uncut and cut barrels. The most valuable lesson for me was why it is so important to pattern our guns due to the unique hand manufacturing process of the bores, their chokes and final test assembly. Thanks for the lessons everyone.

Yup, pattern the gun, which may seem to prove that it is original. In truth, it may only prove that it was cut, overbored, rechoked, and is not original, even if it throws a good pattern. What provides real proof of originality is an $90 bore micrometer from Brownell's and knowledge about the average original bore diameters and choke lengths.

Also - Richard, what is the choke run-out length on those bores? That might be interesting as well..?? John

I finally measured the choke runs on my GHE12. The right bbl is no help... it has about .3" of choke that actually opens a few thounsands. A mini blunderbuss this bbl and likely honed at some point??...certainly not by a modern gunsmith though as the choke portion has a mirror polish, which seems a totally lost art as far as I can tell. woodcock and grouse in tight cover beware this puppy! The left barrel has about 2.5" of choke that constricts .015".

I think that the next time I want chokes opened I'm just going to dig out the brake cylinder hone I've used on my '65 GMC and '66 Bronco, dip it in butter and beach sand and just do it myself. I'd get better results than what the supposed "pros" have done for me... Did someone change the definitely of "polish" in Websters while I was napping or what??

Richard, "choke runs" are of no use unless you refer to the actual bore diameter when also referring to "choke runs". Maybe you mentioned the bore diameter sometime in the last three pages, and, if so, what is it? So you're one of those barrel rapers, huh? I own several raped barrels, but I've never actually raped one myself. Those raped guns were real bargains.