Jim, I've got Pat Liske's new CD on how he shoots. He has a high rib and a high monte carlo stock. In it he talks about the benefits of keeping your head up. The difference between our guns with a lot of drop and his is there's not the recoil problem with his. With a lot of drop, the muzzles want to come up and the stock hits you in the face - must be why I like 3/4 and 7/8 oz loads.

Jim

That's exactly my routine 1/4 shop towel and all. While the Lifter has a rough bore shooing it with quality shot I don't think it's as hard to clean as my Modern Beretta O/U after a long session with cheap promo 12 G shells. I think soft shot leads more than high antimony and the lead is hard to get out. Super slick hard barrels show lead better too. It's really no chore to clean BP guns just different.

One thing you will want to do with Black Powder is clean, then come back next day and wipe the bores with some solvent or oil. Often the clean bores will show some rust day after cleaning, Does not take a lot of wiping but best not put it away for a long period without checking.

Other thing I have always done with my BP guns is wax the exterior, simple paste floor wax rubbed on and quick hand buff. My Minnie Ball Rifle with a new made barrel and no barrel finish at all is still bright inside and out after 30 + years, all that's been done to it is clean with hot soapy water, oil down, then next day wipe the bores 2nd time, finish by taking the oil off the outside and waxing

William

heads up
 

Paul, I have shot with Pat and no question. , he is one of the best. Most of the high rib shooters like to float the clay as they say that they can keep their eye on the bird. I have tried floating the bird but that method gives me problems on certain presentations. I took lessons from Wendell Cherry and he said the most important thing to remember is to "watch the rings" ie keep your eye on the clay. I have also found that to be the hardest thing to do. Jim

I can't see the rings on a clay. Most the time I'm just happy to see the bird.

rings
 

Paul, I said that was the hardest thing to do...sometimes I will go out to pick up the clay I just missed to see if I hit it all...then I can see the rings very clearly. Jim

Hi,
Do you use any compression of the powder as is done in BPCR shooting?
Regards
Preston C

I'm not sure what BPCR shooting is, but yes I push the OP card down hard on the powder. I don't worry how hard - it could make more of a difference with rifle or pistol. Earlier someone was going to get Teflon - I would think it would be a waste of time and expense. I can't see any benefit. I've shot patched round ball and shotgun in the NMLRA since 1970 and the only ones who have used it were some slug gun shooters. No one shooting muzzle loading shotguns ever did.

I shoot a lot of BPCS and have shot my Schuetzen rifle with Black Powder in certain matches. Compression is used by most competitors using a compression die before seating the bullet. Its a lot more compression than muzzleloaders.

Reason is it reduces fowling which is useful in matches, and some say improves consistency. It does increase pressure, not a problem in a rifle, most of us are using modern barrels able to stand much higher pressure than the Black Powder can produce. Not a good thing in a vintage shotgun

Shot shell I dump the charge in the case lightly press the over powder wad to settle the powder then shot/overshot/crimp. You need to press some, try dumping a charge, measure the depth then tap the side of the case with a brass rod. Powder dumped settles lot more than you would think when tapped. Compress lightly it settles it for you.

Boats

I don't believe you can change performance a lot in the way a BP shotgun shell is loaded as far as compressing the BP a little or a lot. You're not trying to shoot a one hole group. You've got a 30" circle with lots of BBs. They may get there a bit faster, but not anything you'd notice. Equal amounts of shot and powder is all that's needed. You'll get a good pattern with decent velocity. Don't try to make it harder than needed.

Exactly,

William