If you want to try "super glue" get it from your local Woodcraft supply store. They keep it locked up, very dangerous stuff if misused. Also better to get small bottles, No matter how hard you try it will harden up before you have used the whole bottle. It's available in different viscosity's. I keep the thin and thick on hand.

Having said all that, it's not something you want to experiment with on a nice shotgun stock. Very short working time and hard sets, nothing gets it off.

Real Glass bed job better to use slow set epoxy that can be mixed with powders to give the required viscosity. I keep two quarts of West System in my shop one fast cure. 30-60 minutes, other slow cure hours, and several different filler powders to build up any possible thickness or hardness. Some are easy sand for fairing after it sets, some are hard can be drilled and taped.

Pay particular attention to coating all metal surfaces with release agent. Good tip is to make a test puddle after glassing removing the metal when the test drop is sticky not set.

As has been said nice shotgun stock is complex fits are much more critical than a bolt action rifle. Much glass work as I have done I would not bed a Parker Shotgun Stock with Glass. Some can and do it well, not me.


William

Richard, I use a product similar to what you use for punky wood. Its called PC-Petrifier Wood Hardener. It comes in 4 oz. bottles. It was only about $10 or $11 per bottle last time I bought it. It soaks in well and adds just a bit of a layer to affect the fit. Scraping it back to the wood leaves the adsorbed hardener below the surface. The label says they have a new heavier duty epoxy based consolidant called PC Rot Terminator, but I haven't found it or tried it. I also haven't seen the Min Wax hardener on the shelves, but if it is as good as their other products it should be high quality.