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-   -   Model 12 (https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1203)

Bill Zachow 04-05-2014 07:08 AM

This thread reminds me of a time over 40 years ago when I was in a gun shop in Syracuse that had an 1897 "brush" model Winchester. A "brush" came with a 26" barrel with cylinder choke. The gun was in pretty nice shape, considering it was over 70 years old at the time, except, the barrel assembly was loose. The dealer wanted $100 for the gun. I told him I could only pay $50, because the big wiggle in the gun. We settled at $60. After completing the purchase transaction, I asked him for a small screw driver. In about a minute, I had the forend off and the barrel lock screw and notch out. Turned the ring, put the notch and screw back in, and the gun was as tight as a drum. The dealer looked amazed and said, "you must be a gunsmith". I laughed as I went out the door. Still have the gun and it is deadly on partridges when I see one. O, also there were no background checks. Gave the guy the $60 and walked down the street carrying the gun. Today, probably be stopped/arrested by the cops.

Bill Murphy 04-05-2014 09:41 AM

My 97 Brush is the most useful 97 I own. I have a Cody letter proving it as an original Brush. They seem to be pretty scarce, even more so in high condition.

Steve Huffman 04-05-2014 10:24 AM

I like them also along with the two barrel set

Thomas L. Benson Sr. 04-05-2014 10:51 AM

Russ: I can't help with your question but did look at a Model 12 stainless 20 Ga. That was made I believe in 1927 and found it to be needing some restoration at the last Gun Show. Thomas

Steve McCarty 04-05-2014 03:20 PM

My 20 gauge Model 12 has one of these on the end.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...A211/004-1.jpg

The 20 is on the bottom. The 16 with the replacement magazine tube is in the middle, the gun on top is a 1923 Nickle Steel gun.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...A211/001-1.jpg

Eric Grims 04-05-2014 03:40 PM

If I understand your reassembly problem you cannot get the bolt to seat forward so you can reassemble. I have my M12 trap gun do this on occasion. Some just don't want to lock forward with a thumb push. If you cannot get it to seat take the stock off (it is simple). There is a hole in the rear of the frame that you can put a rod through push the bolt forward and seat it. Last time I used a chop stick.

Eric Grims 04-05-2014 03:50 PM

Check this out: nickel steel with factory solid ribs on both barrels with proof marks rolled to the side.
http://www.gunauction.com/buy/127098...n-cyl.mfd-1951

Bill Murphy 04-05-2014 05:16 PM

Steve's choke device is a Pachmayr Power Pac. I have them on a 28 gauge Model 12 and on a Model 42 skeet.

Steve McCarty 04-05-2014 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Murphy (Post 136204)
Steve's choke device is a Pachmayr Power Pac. I have them on a 28 gauge Model 12 and on a Model 42 skeet.

That's right! I have all three choke inserts, called close, mid and long range. The shot has to make a jump of about an inch from the muzzle to the choking tube. I sometimes wonder if the shot cup might turn a bit and bind in the throat of the cage. Hasn't happened yet.

I wish it was easy to find replacement Winchester barrels for model 12's and 97's. Used to be so, but no longer and Hastings, as far as I can tell, is only making rifled barrels.

Steve McCarty 04-05-2014 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Grims (Post 136202)
If I understand your reassembly problem you cannot get the bolt to seat forward so you can reassemble. I have my M12 trap gun do this on occasion. Some just don't want to lock forward with a thumb push. If you cannot get it to seat take the stock off (it is simple). There is a hole in the rear of the frame that you can put a rod through push the bolt forward and seat it. Last time I used a chop stick.

After I've had my morning coffee tomorrow I'll sit down with the gun and tackle it. I put Art Pepper on Pandora to sooth my nerves while I struggle. I've done it before and have not had to remove the stock....yet.


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