Apparently the button linkage is free but the bolt is probably stuck somewhere, probably in the barrel lug slot. If it were my gun, I would run the button in as far as it will go, somehow hold it in place, and tap the button with a plastic or nylon hammer in an attempt to break the rust bond. I wouldn't tap too hard, but then it's not my gun.

Bill you smart fella, I just happened to test a very small plastic mallet on the lifter button. Just gently mind you. You were spot on. The lifter sank further than it had and the barrels came loose. Now comes slowly working out the screws and guts. Wish me luck.

There is a bit of a snag though folks. I simply cannot discern the grade. I'm looking for the applicable letter on the watertable but alas to no avail. I only see two things on the entire watertable: the serial number, and the pattent date (Mar. 16. 1875). The Parker website has the watertable as the spot to find the grade. Where is it? Can it be determined using other methods?

Further, I have been able to find the weight of the barrels (4 and then 14 just above the first 4). And, the frame size is listed as 02. What does this tell me?

Also, there is a very small set of letters on the latch that catches the barrels as it is set to fire (tiny letters just opposite the digits for frame size). They are quite small but they apear to read: J.S. Any ideas?

There is also more letters I need some direction on. Two T's encircled. TT. Also, there is a letter F just beyond the TT. Further; there is a very small P that is framed with a diamond shape. This is stamped just above and to the left of the extractor tip, located on the underside of the right side barrel. What do these mean?

I have included more links to pictures I have taken, I'm getting better at taking them. I still have not found any issues with the gun other than rust. I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, but it hasn't yet. Now looking at the barrels and fore end and hinges; everything looks like just a rusty gun.

Thank you all again for your wisdom! Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated!

Sean

http://yfrog.com/jncimg4422j
http://yfrog.com/0mcimg4421j
http://yfrog.com/0mcimg4419tj
http://yfrog.com/jlcimg4418j
http://yfrog.com/jncimg4417j
http://yfrog.com/jlcimg4415j

Recovering a Rusted Gun
 

Sean; Several years ago I recieved some
thoroughly rusted low number Springfields to restore for our local honor guard. I made a metal box and soaked the guns in kerosene for a month or two, which softened the rust. It is difficult to remove a Parker stock without opening the action. I would suggest that you find a container, perhaps a 4 or 6 inch pipe that will allow the barrel and frame to be immersed in kero, without submerging the stock. Remove the fore end, rest the muzzle in the bottom and fill with kero to 1/4 inch below the wood. You might try putting a little penetrating oil into the seams before immersion.
Does the lifter button move 1/2 inch? that is necessary to fully unlock the barrel.

A proper tap with a rubber mallet may do the trick, but a common rust bond between two metal pieces may be as strong as a weld. Softening the rust may prevent barrel metal from adhering to the frame, or the reverse, when separating the parts.

Best, Austin

the 4 14 indicates the unstruck barrel weight of 4 lbs., 14 oz.

The JS is the barrel maker's stamp for Jonathan (or John) Stokes.

The small P in the diamond may be an indication of barrels made by Parker Bros. rather than the customary imported barrels.

A Parker lifter with Twist or Plain Twist barrels is usually a grade 0 or a grade 1.

Sean: Welcome to the club, you'll soon be a Parker restoration expert. Your serial 19698 is found in the Parker records as a 10 gauge, capped pistol grip, with 30" PT (Plain Twist) barrels, quality 0 (zero). (That is the least expensive grade.) It is one of six identical guns, serials 19696 thru 19701. I think this means that it was made in a batch of guns for inventory or for some big distributor's order -- as opposed to being specially made for an individual. A PGCA research letter should tell who bought it. Hope you can get the gun restored to your satisfaction. Charlie Price

Charlie, You're my new hero! Thank you for all the informaion. You have been an amazing aid. I knew the gun mustn't have been a speacial order as it is very simple in appearance. I will most certainly be requesting a research letter soon. Thank you greatly!

Sean

A big thanks to everyone that has helped to educate me on my Parker! I have learned so much and certainly could not have done anything without you wiseguys. This thread is getting a bit long in the tooth so I'll be opening up a new one in the restoration forum.

I just have one last issue I need assistance with. I have removed every available screw from the stock and now I am ready to pull the hinge and bottom plate off. This is a lifter so the bottom plate is stuck on it. And, the crown of the metal on top is protruding just right to inhibit removal. So, what I have now is an almost dissasembled stock with the triggers and hinge plate wobbling around. How do I procede? Have I missed anything? I hope you can tell by the picture what a state I am in. I am so close! Anyone dissasembled one of these before?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sean

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/1345/cimg4436l.jpg

Sean,

It has been a while. If you push the lifter up a little you will see the linkage between the stock and the receiver move. There is a small screw that connects the lifter to the locking bar. It will be on the left side as I remember. Unscrew that small screw and things should come apart.

Harry

PS: Austin is the "WIZARD" on lifters.

Your gun is not a "0" grade. There is no engraving on a "0". Yours is a higher grade. David

What an incredible experience! Well folks, with your help I have dismantled my 1880 Lifter 10 gauge and now the stock and fore end are raw wood. It is amazing to me that at the beginning of this thread I had assumed the restoration of my parker was beyond me. I could not have done this alone mind you. A big thanks goes to Richard especially who walked me through my first exposure to side locks and the internals of this gun.

I have many more questions and am in need of further assistance. But I will be opening up a new thread in the restorations forum. Questions like weather or not to remove the sheild as I refinish the stock, should I refinish and re-tool the checkering (I'm a woodworker by trade, so I'm confident in my skills). These questions and others will come up in the new thread. Especially David's notion that the gun may not be a grade 0, in fact being a possible higher grade.

Again, thank you to everyone that has helped! I couldn't have done this without you.


new thread:http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthr...=9213#post9213