I have acquired a set of Dem-Bart checkering tools with a number of bits. I am also making a flat bottom checking tool following the method by Larry Potterfield on Midway YT channel. Any idea where I might find a mullered cutter? I believe that DB made one labeled the BV-N. Have not been able to locate this cutter on ebay. Suggestions welcome.

Cameron, take a 1/2" wood dowel 4" long. Drill a 1/8"hole in the center of the dowel 1/2" deep. Now take a 4-40 or 5-40 screw at least 1-1/4" long and generate a 1/2" radius using a propane torch. Epoxy the screw in the dowel and allow it to cure. Its ready for use. The die sinker file I use is German and will set you back about $40. Mine was given to me. I would not recommend the cheap Chinese die sinker files for mullered borders.

I have found that refinishing the wood prior to recuttingthe checkering gives a better job and the checkering comes out better then light finish on new checkering so as not to clog up.

Parker checkering is NOT flat bottomed. That video by potterfield was not accurate in stating/doing that on that gun.

A mullered border can be cut with a dembart concave border cutter. Or with a U-gouge. Or by using the altered machine screw that craig describes. Or even a rifler file can use used.

Thanks to all. Craig I now have what you are describing fixed in my head. Appreciate the clarification. Do you have a photo? That would be useful.

Brian, thanks. I will add a comment to Potterfield YT channel on this error. Save me the time and expense of making a flat bottom cutter and messing up my Parker. Really appreciate it as drill rod is cheap, 01 Swiss checkering file is decidedly not.

So, what did the Parker Bros use to create the flat top checkering ? A 60 degree single line cutter?

Just thinking ahead. Any advice on using alkanet root as a stain on this Parker? I have read quite a lot on AR as a stain to get that red tone but I am not sure about using it on my 1893 Parker? I do not make my own of course but am aware that a product by S.B. McWilliams can be purchased on eBay. Looking for your advice. Thanks.

A note: On my project gun from last winter (Leftover G S#47216: Stock repair- yikes on the Double gun forum) I used Brownell's Pilkington spirit stain and then multiple hand rubbed coats of Velvit Oil. Turned out very satisfactory.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61544_500x375.jpg

Clear Stain?... How does that work?

Brian, that is an oxymoron for certain. Good catch. Typed 'clear' when what I needed to type is Pilkington Spirit Stain. Sorry for the confusion. I like this stain when applied sparingly. Not sure it would be correct or right for my early Parker.

In my mind actual stain should only be used to cover up patches of sap wood, or to blend a repair in or something like that. Or to match a butt to an existing forend, or visa versa.

The natural color of any wood cannot be beat.

I will use Alkenet root in my sealer coats to get a tint of color into the wood, but the difference is only slight.

Here are a few photos of the forend to display what I am working with on this project. Question? Should I finish the wood before tackling the checkering?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61734_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61733_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61735_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61736_600x400.jpg