This image snagged off the Fox forum, not my gun. That said, mine also has the corrugated metal strip. Discussion has it that they were used for some Philadelphia guns. In the blackened stock head area on mine I can see one stamped number in the wood and it is one of the numbers in my SN so.... more info to suggest the stock is original. Maybe when the blackened oil is removed, I will be able to see more numbers.
Cheers,
Jack

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...7/IMG_8363.jpg

thanks for the post. I had taken my sterlingworth apart and saw that corregated staple or what ever it is and though it was someones repair for a split stock head

Apparently it was at the discretion of the stockmaker, depending on how the specific piece of quarter sawn walnut looked after all the wood removal was done. It is supposed to strengthen that area.

Mr. Tarnation... when "snagging" photos off the Fox forum it would be nice if you at least gave credit to the guy who took the photo, and spent time uploading and posting it, along with his take on why it was added to some but not all stocks.

Why not just add a hyperlink so that the original Fox site posting remained intact? Frank

Agreed. Poor form. Here's a LINK
Jack

Progress thus far:

Trigger plate removed, disassembled, gunk and rust completely eliminated, cold blued, lightly oiled and hand rubbed, re-assembled and ready to go when the rest is done.

Barrels given a good thorough clean of bores which now glisten and chime nicely. Found a number of small dents several inches from the muzzles. A little rough handling over the years. Easily raised with proper tool but I don't have one and not quite ready to lay out 400+$$. Probably just take it to the smith to have done. Removed all screws,springs, hooks,ejectors and they are soaking while I do yard work, car work, life work but they will all clean up nicely. Discovered one ejector is slightly warped. It will not easily slide into place. The other is perfect. Both are numbered to the gun. I think this arose from lack of cleaning over the years and then forcing the action closed while there was a build up of grunge, hardened oil and rust mix. Never have played with ejectors but it needs to be straightened to just drop into place, not be forced. Forcing it closed has also caused it to shine up the under rib through wearing against that surface, suggesting to me that this went on for quite a while during hunts.

I am open to suggestions on straightening the ejector shank.

I have thought of a gentle squeeze in the vise between copper jaws. If that doesn't work, I have thought about heating it a bit and redoing the gentle squeeze.

Has anyone straightened an ejector shank? It is not grossly warped, just enough that it will not seat itself without more finger pressure than I think it should need. When I push it home and watch the other end, the warped shank moves off center towards the opposite barrel, forcing the other shank to move off center closer to its barrel. The good ejector drops into place and moves straight along the under rib, as it should. Closing the action does seat both ejectors but that continues a problem that should be rectified.

Thoughts?

Cheers,
Jack

R and R on the shank and maybe alignment pin
 

[quote=Jack Cronkhite;46309]Progress thus far:

Trigger plate removed, disassembled, gunk and rust completely eliminated, cold blued, lightly oiled and hand rubbed, re-assembled and ready to go when the rest is done. If the pin and the lugger (extractor blade ) are OK, and they are silver soldered into position on the lugger- I would have a machinist make a new shank with the key-way, right to scale from D-2, and refit it to the guide pin and lugger- if you put heat into the ejector assembly, heat always travels to the thinnest mass- overheating might cause the silver solder to break lose anyway=-- it some ways, it is way easier to straighten dents in a pipe (shotgun barrel_) than to bend back a out of alignment solid rod, no matter the metallurgy:eek::eek:

Jack, be careful straightening the ejector blade. If you break it they are almost impossible to find. The blade and shaft are machined as one piece. I think that I would determine where the misalignment occurs, probably going to be the blade. If so I would assemble both to the gun and use careful force to try correction (light hammer). applying heat carefully might help.

Thanks Jim: I have determined it is the shaft. The blades seat correctly. Laying the problem ejector on a true flat surface and shining oblique light from the back, I can see the arc of the warpage. The other ejector shaft shows no arc. I'm of a mind to warm it slightly and squeeze in the vise, using copper jaw covers. Since it is not that much off being straight, I'm hoping that will resolve the issue. I don't think that will over-stress the metal but anyone with experience has a few more days to chime in before I go through gaining experience, which sometimes means learning what not to do ever again. :)
Cheers,
Jack

Give it a 'shot" Jack
 

- Ooops- I didn't realize the shaft, blade and the guide pin were of a piece (AISI 1018?)- yup, moderate heat and copper vise jaws- just don't use the old machine shop Rule of Thumb- "Never force anything, just go to the tool crib and get a larger hammer"-- That's in jest of course- let us know how it works out please, Jack:bigbye::bigbye: