Practice, practice and practice some more. Practice forend.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61752_600x400.jpg

In strongly recommend always checkering after finish. Others feel the opposite. But to each their own.

I agree. This is my practice forend. Amazing how the cutter head has a mind of its own. Parker in the background. I am still trying to get my head around fixing the barrel border divot as described by Craig.

Ok, clearly not the dowel but am I getting the idea? Use the actual walnut grain matching dowel to sand the barrel tunnel to have it's margin blend into the walnut dowel. Then using only a sliver of that dowel, glue it in and shape away any part to create a new barrel tunnel? Am I even close in my understanding?
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61753_600x400.jpg

(Read Craig's response below. The orientation of the dowel is off 90 degrees)

Just a note to those interested. The checkering on this 1893 G grade Parker appears to be 22 lpi.

You have not got it. The cylinder of wood is perpendicular to the forend iron and is at a 45 degree angle to the plane formed by the centerline of both bores. Take a concave cardboard template of the 1 1/2 dia. and place it below the divot, so that all the damage is exposed, then draw a pencil line below it using the template as your guide. the area above the pencil line is the part your going to replace. By sanding at a 45 you reduce fitting time, it reduces mistakes, and is easier to hide. Matching the wood and grain are as important as the fit of the sliver. If you have an old buttstock,that matches, take a 1 1/2" holesaw and drill a hole through it. The waste will provide you with your sliver. Good Luck!

Craig, now I think I have the image in my head. I was fixed on adding a sliver along the axis line of the forend margin. And I now understand why a walnut dowel will not work. I have a supply of walnut 1" blanks that I will use to cut out my 1.5" piece. I will mock up what I now visualize and post a photo before proceeding. Again thanks for your time and help.

Craig, in the photo: on the right the 1.5 " diameter tool to sand the divot at 45 degrees. On the left the stock for the sliver to be glued in the sanded divot and shaped. Looking at the photo do I have this correct? If I now have it correct I will practice on an orphan forend piece before any attempt on my Parker wood. It is a long winter here and I have time to go slow.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61776_600x400.jpg

Cameron, it looks like you are headed in the right direction. However your sliver selection could be improved color wise. I do understand that photographs can be misleading and you are the final judge.

Craig, working on the color match. There is a shadow on the forend making it appear much darker. I have another question. Is the glue side of the sliver cut to match the angle of 45 degrees of the radius after sanding out the divot? Makes sense to me but I am not clear on this point.

No, you make the sliver a generous oversize and concern yourself with making the glue oint perfect. Remember the finished repair is going to be very small and the grain is going in the correct direction.

Got it. I will mock up one and practice before attacking the actual Parker repair.

Thanks, I appreciate your help. I am certain this will be appreciated by many other folks with dinged for end margins thinking of a proper repair.

Getting closer.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61784_600x400.jpg

Parker forend cleaned and ready for grain sealing, nicks filled, finish applied.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61785_500x375.jpg

Checkering to be recut
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61786_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61787_600x400.jpg

Fun.

Cameron there are 2 reasons I use a 45 degree angle. One I can easily get a light source on the iron side of the repair and check fit (bore light works well). With a 45 I can move the sliver back and forth to match figure as best I can. Your wood appears to have no figure but someday you may need to match figure and with a 45 it is very helpful. Not only does a generous sliver help matching figure it also helps you to keep glue off your fingers and helps you to control a precise positioning of the sliver.

Thanks. Any advice on filling in missing wood in the checkering pattern. (View the bottom photo above, right margin of release iron) On SxS of lesser pedigree I use a dab of appropriately colored a AcraGlas. On this Parker?

Also, any thoughts on using oxalic acid to remove some of the darker stains on this wood?
I have read about it but never used it.

Craig, divot cleaned at 45 degree and generous sliver fit to the divot clean-out. Nothing glued just sitting in place in the photo. Am I on the right track with this repair?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61791_600x400.jpg
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61792_600x400.jpg

Cameron you took my advice literally on making the sliver a generous oversize. A fine saw will remove the excess in about 10 minutes. If the glue joint is ready, glue it. If you are using rubber bands to hold the sliver while the glue cures try the rubber bands before you glue. I think you may have to remove some of the excess in order for the rubber bands to help position the sliver.

Craig, I am being quite literal until I am ready to glue. I made the generous sliver from a blank of 1/2" straight grain walnut and I will slice it into a few "slivers" giving me a few spares should I need them.

And I have yet another question. Bet you could see that coming. In gluing in the sliver do I angle it to match the 45 degree as in the photo or do I bevel the mating surface to keep the sliver upright (to the centerline of the forend)? Seems upright is correct to keep the grain direction correct. I am not clear on this aspect.

Glue it as pictured, you may be surprised at how well it matches the forend when it is all shaped and finish sand. Not all blanks are cut the same way at the mills.

Thank you. Will do.

Craig, sliver cut, fit and ready to glue. I have Titebond III or CA Super T regular and gap filling. Any preference?

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61803_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61802_600x400.jpg

Practice piece.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61806_500x375.jpg

Never used either adhesive. I would choose the one that is clear if either one is.

Craig, thanks. Based on my test piece I am going with the CA Special T. gap filling. Appears to work quite well. Stays in place, does not run and sets clear. I will post a pic when I set the sliver.

Sliver set.
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61847_600x400.jpg

It may not happen, but the problem I would have with using CA glue would be the possibility of staining the wood darker as it penetrates the pores of the wood. The walnut may be dense enough so you won’t notice.

Craig, I wish to sincerely thank you for your time and advice on this repair. I would not have even known where to start without your help. I have a decent library by respected gunsmiths such as Roy Dunlap, J. Howe, Miller and McIntosh & Trevallion and none of these cover this type of repair in wood. In fact going through my library I am surprised to find how many pages are devoted to wood finishing and how few to actual repairs in wood.

Here are a few photos from my work. I am pleased with the result. In finishing the wood I will get the new piece to blend in and the mating line to disappear. As a note the CA Super T ultra gap filling adhesive works great. Does not run, requires only a very small amount and has a 60-90 second working time.

My working setup
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61853_600x400.jpg

Careful stock removal
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61852_600x400.jpg

Finished repair
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61854_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/61856_600x400.jpg

Impressive! Very well done.





.

Cameron, you did the work, you deserve the credit. Anyway, I didn't learn some of these tricks on my own, I was shown them by a cabinet maker a long long time ago.

Continuing with my project. My checkering cradle. Cradle from MTB and mount system from RAM components. Solid with complete adjustability and movement. Spindle to hold forend copied from the one provided by Brian Dudley. Works great. I am currently practicing on an orphan forend.

For those interested in securing checkering tools this is what I have learned as I started out without a single checkering tool other than a couple of high quality rifflers. For checkering tools here is my experience. First, stay away from EBay for anything other than hard to find Dem-Bart NOS cutter bits. Sellers on Ebay and bidders must think these tools are scarce collector items. You will pay way too much. Second go to Jantz Knife Makers Supply in OK where you can purchase a Gunline Premier set for $150 or less. (Information learned from another PGCA member on this forum, thanks). They also sell individual GL handles at $8 ( Ebay sellers will ask and get upwards of $40 for a single handle). Dem-Bart cutters will fit the Gunline handles. Brownell's see thru checkering handle is no longer available however you can get the same tool from Ullman Precision Products. These are more expensive and the cutter is sold separately. Handle and one cutter will cost $100. High quality if you are thinking of working on many projects. Ullman cutters @ $45 come in 90 and 75 degree and four different lengths so you really need to know what you need before buying. Note, Wood Carvers Supply carries the Brownell type handle and cutters.

Should anyone have additional information to share I and I am certain others would welcome any and all advice and suggestions. My thoughts are aimed at those who, like myself, want a few tools to use to freshen-up existing checkering and perhaps give one complete checkering job a try to pass the winter hours. High end checkering tools for the professional with carbide cutters are readily available.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62006_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62007_600x400.jpg

Practice and more practice...
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62008_600x400.jpg

Finally after much thought and consulting of my wood finishing experts Flexner and Jewitt plus a lot of time experimenting with solvent based wood dye coloring I have achieved the best match I am able to produce for the walnut repair piece and the original Parker forend wood. My watercolor book, 600 Watercolors, by Sharon Finmark helped to get the right mix of yellow-red-brown to create the orange-brown color of the aged walnut. Next step is to begin the shellac finish application. And then on to what started this project... Recutting the checkering.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62066_500x375.jpg

Cameron great info and i have found you can re sharpen Gunline and Brownell cutters easily with a knife edge file. Bobby

Will you share more detail on doing this sharpening? Brand and size for knife edge file? How do you hold the cutter for sharpening? Other details for success? Thanks.

I believe I have achieved the reddish color tone match using the alkanet red oil. Practice wood from the same period 1890's above with three applications, original Parker stock finish below.

I tried BLO as the first application on the other side of the forend and that produced a color tone with too much brown.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62096_600x400.jpg

I need some advice. As I make progress on my recutting of the checkering I have arrived at working on the mullered border. The first photo shows the original border with very little wear on the right. I have re-established the border on the left. The original border on the left consisted of a slight amount of original pattern in the form of lines and a slight border profile.

The second photo shows the tools I have for this work. The Dem-Bart cutters are 1) 2-28, 2) BC-N concave, 3) F1, and 4) 4-40 machine screw tool. And a curved blade knife.

As I continue along the checkering pattern I will be losing any pattern lines for the border as it has been completely erased by hand wear. This will make re-establishing the border more difficult.

I watched a YouTube video (MNR Custom, LLC) on this type of border and the fellow uses a 28 lpi cutter to establish the border lines for the mullered border (on a 22 lpi checkering pattern and not a Parker).

A couple of observations at this point.
1: the BC-N cutter is wide and aggressive so care is required to match the original border.
2: there are two lines, one on each side of the border, very thin. How are these cut? Which tool? (see #3)
3: I find that a 2-28 cutter will give me the required center line for the border. Is this a good means to center the border? (yes).
4: The BC-N is used to start the border and the 4-40 tool to finish the mullered border.

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62216_600x400.jpg

https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62217_600x400.jpg

If that picture is an example of your own cutting of a mullered Parker border, I think it is about perfect!!

It's not too wide, it's just right. Bravo!

Here's an original unretouched Parker mullered border. Granted, it's a Grade 4 but the grade makes no difference with the mullered border.
There were several different people employed by Parker and Remington during the various periods of production. A few of them employed a more pedestrian interpretation of mullering while the more expert of them employed the wider concave mullering.







.

Cameron, I've never used a cradle or a concave cutter. I prefer holding and constantly turning my work as I checker. I use masking tape to lay out master lines. I freehand the muller border with a series of cutters and files. I prefer Dembart and Ullman. I've also made some of my cutters. I don't know if there's a right and a wrong way. I study other's work, if I like it, I'll try to duplicate their cuts. Depth of the cut is important. Your work is looking good! Take your time....

For those interested, and following here are a couple of photos on my progress. The original border on this Parker is only +0.070 wide measured from thin outside border line to opposite border line. This is a 28 lpi pattern. The actual mullered border is even narrower.

This photo shows the worn smooth border on the left:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62270_600x400.jpg

This photo shows my refurbished border on the right:
https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/62272_600x400.jpg

A few more lines to go. I need new eyes.

Take your lines all the way to the border and back cut Cameron. It will make your checkering and borders really pop!

I use an S-1 Dembart tool mounted so that the cutter cuts as it is pulled away from the borders and in very tight areas I use an metal engraving tool that is V-shaped to finish around the borders.