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I would go with option 1 or 2. 10 gauge parker is fun to shoot.
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What is the minimum wall thickness?
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Brad's the expert but I wouldnt say .023" mwt is necessarily a disqualifier. Where along the length of the tube is this measurement found?
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I wont add anything to the dimensions topic because not much can be said based on the two basic numbers you provided.
If the barrels need to be replaced, a gun like this should be put back to being as right as possible. That means sticking with the same barrel type and gauge. The only way i would consider making a change is if it is to fluid steel barrels. Making major changes to its original configuration would effect the guns lasting value going forward. Your most cost effective option is keeping the original barrels and going with tube inserts. If i was not so attached to a certain set of 30” titanic barrels that i have, i would have been offering them to you already. |
I guess I need to decide how much under water on this is tolerable. I knew going into this that it wasn’t a money maker.. Ideally, I’d go with the inserts + locate some titanic steel barrels, that way at least the original barrels would stay with the gun. Just not sure I want to spend that much.
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Kirk, where do you plan to get the 10 gauge #2 frame Bernard barrels you mentioned?
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I sure would like to know the barrel measurements and why they are unsafe to shoot. There are a ton of Parkers being shot on a regular basis with a .023 wall. They sound more like choke measurements??
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I would ask for minimum wall thickness measurements all along the length of the barrels and at several locations around the tubes from top rib to bottom rib. It's tough to make an informed decision without pertinent information.
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.023 MWT is thin and certainly is a cause for concern, depending on where the measurement was taken. If it was taken in front of the chamber then it's a big concern. If it was taken closer to the muzzle, then its a lesser concern. The good thing is Bachelder is one of the best barrelmen in the country and he will give you solid advice
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I would look for some orphan barrels and just keep the old barrels laid aside somewhere. Orphan barrels should not be too hard to find
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Kirk, if it were mine, I'd go with option #3. If you bought it with the intention of using it. then make it a shooter again. If you bought it to admire it, then hang it on the wall and cut your losses now. My opinion only.
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One of the things that attracted you to this CH were those lovely Bernard barrels. And your gun has provenance. If it were me (and isn't it easy to spend somebody else's money?), I would sleeve and refinish those barrels. They will look beautiful and be a source of pride. Replacing a set of Bernards with something of lesser appeal just doesn't seem right on a high grade gun like yours.
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I think you mean line them not sleeve them?
as Mark did http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthr...t=21127&page=2 |
Thanks Rick, Briley tubes
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Kirk, Mills' answer makes good sense. Keep the origonal barrels. Anyway, thats what Mills and j would do. You bought it to shoot didnt you?
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Kirk -
I just went trough a very similar experience - Split barrel - liners inserted by Brad. Detailed below. http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21127 IMO it Would make a beautiful 16 or 20 if it is deemed unsafe as is. Mark |
I think I’ll probably get them redone with the Briley tubes. I’d still like to find some 28” steel barrels eventually, would be nice to keep the original barrels with the gun even if they aren’t used that much, + have a set I could throw on and and use in the fall.
Thanks everyone. |
I have a GH with original barrels bulged and cut to 23 inches. Brian Dudley found some replacement barrels for it and it is one of my favorite shooting guns with the replacement barrels. I bought a Boyt two barrel case and keep both barrels in it. That system works well for me.
Your Bernard barrels would be great if you ever wanted to display the gun. |
Kirk, you can proof test those barrels yourself. The components required are an inflated spare tire, rope or heavy duty ty-raps, 80 ft. of heavy string, 2 3/4" magnum loads a hard hat , and eye protection. While proof testing has huge risk to those Bernard barrels it will determine any safety concerns. More than 40 years ago I was involve with an AH 12 ga. damascus gun that the dealer wanted to replace the damascus with Vulcan barrels. I convinced him that the gun would be much more desirable with both sets of barrels. I assure you the gun will shoot as well with Vulcan barrels as it will with Titanic barrels.
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When fitting similar frame size barrels to a different gun, is their ever a situation where it just could not be done? Obviously I have no way to test fitment unless I was to buy locally.
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Kirk, matching frame size is most important, the width of the breech on the barrels should match the width of the fences on the action ( .010-.020 would be acceptable ), a full rib extension would be desirable, ejector or Damascus barrels should not be excluded, seek expert advice before purchase if possible ( 3 day inspection, approval , loan, etc.), after you outline your requirements use this forum to assist you in your search, buy barrels in very good or better condition ( poor condition barrels are a money pit ), and finally be patient , you have the gun, the barrels you need are out there.
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I think the answer to Kirks question is, yes, there are times when barrels are not able to be fit properly enough, even if the right frame size. Seems there's been posts on here stating that. Seems like I've read everything from "they dropped on and fit better than the originals", to "just couldn't make them work". Others who know far more than I should chime in here on this one.
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Thanks, I read somewhere on here someone was saying to try and keep within 10,000 of your gun.. Obviously not possible in this case.
These are 2 frame 28” barrels choked F/F.. described as being in good shape, not really liking the condition of the dolls head. |
the dolls head may end up needing fitting anyway
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That dollshead looks like it can be easily be repaired with an expert tig welder who must use cold rolled rod, NO SS rod. Width of the breech is important. Comparing the width of your lug to the Vulcan barrels would be advisable, 002 or less is OK, the Vulcan larger is best.
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Richard, I gave Kirk 2 disqualifiers, frame size and width of breech, giving him more may cause him to reject a perfectly acceptable set of barrels. Fitting a set of barrels that had been previously fitted often involves compromise, that's why I encouraged Kirk to seek professional advice. Richard while your statement is true and I understood Kirks question I chose not to answer it as I felt I would confuse him. Finally, what one man accepts in doing this work another man may reject as a result of compromise.
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I called Bachelder’s the other day and told them to just send the barrels back. I’m starting to think this is just going to be a lesson learned about impulse buying. :nono:
I was fine being underwater on a Bernard CH, but it’s looking more and more like I’d have quite a bit more into a Bernard CH with Vulcan barrels than what you could just buy a Bernard CH for. Thanks to everyone who helped and offered advice. |
Sometimes it is best to cut your losses and not pour any more money into a gun. It is a hard pill to swallow, but is wise
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I would have Brad clean up the muzzle and then send it to Briley for ultralight tubes, 20 gauge would be the lightest. I would not restore the Bernard pattern at great expense.
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Kirk if you feel this way in a month, sell it. You will probably break even or possibly make a profit. Most people that pursue this hobby have paid for there education at one time or another and you are no exception.
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