Here are photos of the stock blank I picked out for this 20g. hammer gun. I have had this one kicking around for a while. I think it is not too much. Just nice enough.

Attachment 32387

Attachment 32388

Perfect if you ask me.

Brian
If it was me I would step up a bit for a C grade. That looks more like a D grade. Most C's have a pretty nice piece of French. JMHO
David

David,
You must be a little confused with my other post maybe. This 20 g hammer gun will be built in a grade 2 style.

Brian
Sorry, that is just perfect for a grade 2 gun.
David

Underside of forend milled out with lightening cuts.

Attachment 32515

Forend wood blank mounted onto the duplicator along with a pattern forend.

Attachment 32580

After running the duplication.

Attachment 32581

Attachment 32582

And the forend all fitted up to the metal parts and the gun.

Attachment 32583

Attachment 32584

Attachment 32585

I stopped by Brian's table at the local gun show this morning- as you would expect, the pictures do not do this project justice.

can't wait to see this when it is done

also- Brian showed me a set of barrels he finished, nice deep black, not a flaw in sight.

this guy has talent we haven't seen yet.

Thank you for the kind words Rick. It was good to see you this morning.

Waiting for the next installment. This is better than Game of Thrones :corn:

Don't go that far... Game of thrones is pretty damn good.

The other Ed Stark
 

What can I say Brian... If you lived in Westeros, the Lanisters would be asking YOU to craft their valerian steel weaponry. Ok, this is getting a little nerdy:whistle: I'll quit before the others start throwing things!

This post is all about making up a working extractor for the 20g. hammer gun.

But first, a little background. The barrels I installed on the hammer gun frame were intended to be for a hammerless ejector gun. However, the kickers were not in the barrels.

The hole in Ejector barrels for the kicker shafts are a larger diameter than the hole in Extractor barrels for the extractor guide. Also, there is no set screw in the locking lug of ejector barrels since the rib extention is milled out for a stop plate in order to prevent the kickers from falling out. Given all those differences between ejector and extractor barrels, some modifications would be in order no matter what I did to get a working shell extractor.

I had been looking for a little while for a 20g. extractor that I could modify. However, I found that the shape of the extractor blade is different than that of a pair of ejector kickers. So that was not a viable option. The only other option I had using used parts would be to fuse together a pair of 20g. ejector kickers and use them as the extractor in my barrels. But... as we all know, finding an orphaned pair of ejector kickers for an 0 frame 20g. would be a little hard, so I didnt even try too hard.

I had an NOS unfitted extractor laying around that was oversized enough to be used for a 1 or 0 frame in 16 or 20g. So I did what it took to make this one work.

This is what I started with.

Attachment 34374

First I had to remove the extractor shaft from the blade since it is too small in diameter to use in the ejector barrels.

Attachment 34375

Then I could fit up just the blade to the barrels without having to worry about the shaft. I had to narrow the blade and work the top radius some to get it to fit in tightly.

Attachment 34376

Then I could shape the radius in the bottom to match the barrel flats.

Attachment 34377

After the blade was fitted, I thinned it down flush with the breech and I drilled a hole in it that corresponded with the shaft hole in the barrels and plug welded the shaft to the blade. Then dressed down the weld.

Attachment 34378

Attachment 34379

The extractor blade as new had a small hole drilled in it for the guide pin. But The barrels did not have a guide pin hole since ejector barrels do not use a guide pin. So I had to drill out the barrels for the guide pin with the extractor in place.

Attachment 34380

I then turned down a piece of rod the same diameter of the drill bit for a guide pin. With the hole in the blade countersunk, I was able to insert the guide pin and plug weld it in place. Then dress down the weld.

Attachment 34381

Attachment 34382

Attachment 34383

Attachment 34384

Here is the fitted extractor with shaft and guide pin installed and in the barrels.

Attachment 34385

Attachment 34386

Then I had to remove the excess material in the chamber area.

Attachment 34387

Finally, The extractor set screw hole could be drilled out and tapped. A new set screw was made and the extractor shaft notched for it.

Attachment 34388

Attachment 34389

I am going to end up sending the barrels out to have the chokes opened up and the bores/chambers checked and lapped. The shell rims will be cut in at that time.

Mr. Dudley you are truly a craftsman !!!

Brian, what does the B on the barrel lug signify? Thanks again for your continued posting on this project. Your workmanship continues to be flawless and I am sure admired by all of the PGCA membership.

I am not sure. It was a mark that was on it when I got it. Likely from. Remington when the barrels were made.

The "B" represents the mark of Leon Bartholomew, a Parker Gun inspector. We had a chance to meet and talk with him at the PGCA "Meriden Homecoming" during the summer of 2003.

I think this is my all time favorite thread. Keep working, keep photographing, keep posting!

Brian, who is going to do the cutting of the rim recess? I was reading the post waiting for pictures of you doing it, but I guess you're not going to do it. Thanks for any information you can give me.

I took the barrels to Turnbull to have the rims cut and the bores/chambers polished. I have all the tools to do this for 12g, but not for 20g. Just haven't bought them yet.
I figure that since the barrels were new manufacture and never fitted, I would have them all gone over and make sure they are good to go.

The bores are a very tight 20g and the choke as they are is about. .007" in both bores. I wish they had been both full choked as I would have liked to have the left a little tighter. But I can live with the open chokes.

Time for an update on this one.

I got the barrels back from turnbull a while ago. I am currently working on a run of several barrel sets and mics. parts for bluing, so I figured I would get the barrels for this gun in final polishing and rust bluing.

Below are a series of photos of the bluing process.

The barrels are finish polished out and ready to start the bluing process.

Attachment 37335

They are de-greased in a bath of denatured alcohol.

Attachment 37336

For plugging the bores and handling I use a pair of 36" threaded rods with rubber stoppers (that I have drilled out), washers and nuts on each end. when the nuts are tightened down the rubber plugs are seated into the chamber and muzzle. The hole in the plugs allows air to vent out of the bores while minimizing the amount of water that gets into the bores. The length of rod that sticks out the ends work great for hanging the barrels in the tank and also for handling them.

Attachment 37337

Attachment 37338

The barrels are swabbed down with alchohol before each rusting and then warmed a little with a torch. A cotton swab is used to apply a solution to the barrels which causes the metal to oxidize. Here is a photo after the first rusting.

Attachment 37339

Then the barrel is boiled in the water tank for a little bit. When the barrel comes out, the red oxide is converted to black oxide.

Attachment 37340

Attachment 37341

On the surface is a light coating of "Black Velvet" that needs to be carded off using a super fine stainless wire wheel.

Attachment 37342

That is the end of one cycle in the bluing process. This is all repeated about 8 to 10 times to get the deep black color required. Every set is different and the environment effects it as well. After enough processes have been done, the barrels are neutralized with baking soda and water, dried and coated with oil to cure.

Attachment 37343

Attachment 37344

The barrels look great Brian. Were did you get your plastic tank for your alcohol bath.

looks like the wallpaper tray I use for browning

It is a wallpaper tray.

Thanks Brian. I will see if I can find one.

Is the rolled engraving removed during polishing? How do you polish the top of the rib if not? Are there liquid "strippers" that will clean areas like the top of the rib?

Well this is a set of new barrels and all engraving is hand cut. And there was no rib matting.
I take it you mean barrel sets in general.
There are commercial bluing removers, but if they are used, polishing still needs to be done. As far as rib matting and roll stamp makers marks, I just polish off the surface and leave the old bluing in the matting and lettering. It is rust bluing anyway and that is the same process I am using, so it all just blends in fine when finished.

Thanks Brian,
Yes, I was referring to examples where one would re-brown/etch barrels. I Was curious as to how it's done.

Awesome thread! Thanks Brian, looking forward to the final product!

Finally got back to doing a little something on this 20g.

Buttstock duplication.

I originally planned on using a different blank for the project, but the figure was a little unbalanced from one side to the other.

Since that time, I had acquired a good deal of American walnut and in that bunch was a blank that was on the thin side, perfect for an 0 frame stock, and it had very nice even curl in the butt.

I opted for an uncapped pistol grip for the stock. Luckily I had an 0 frame top action stock around that was no where near perfect, but good enough to get a pattern out of. When duplicating, I left the top of the stock in block since I wanted higher dimensions than the pattern stock had.

Attachment 41979

Attachment 41980

Attachment 41981

Brian,
so you changed duplicating machines in the middle of this. What make is the blue one? And what happened to the remainder of this thread?

This project has fallen to the bottom of the priority list given it is personal.