Whenever there is any reasonable doubt, I get an expert to check it out. I am no expert for sure.

Mills, Don't write the barrels off if there is a slight bulged at the forcing cone. I have gun I was lucky with, which had precisely the same bulge, and I was able to 'tap it back down using a piece of think brass stock (.5" x 1") and a small ball peen hammer. I slowly worked the bulge right back to where the barrels were when they left the factory. I did make a mandrel to insert in the bore before I began.

Be sure to look very closely at the brazed joint line betheen the lug block and the barrel flats. If it is truly a ring bulge at the forcing cones caused by a cartridge that was either too long or too powerful for the chamber it may have split that brazed joint.

Not to say that couldn't happen, but a bulge from excessive pressure is more likely to happen at the weakest point, which is the farthest from the strongest point. The silver soldered, or brazed locking lugs ads mechanical strength to that portion of the barrel, so a bulge isn't as likely to occur there , as it is more distant from the lug. You seen plenty of those aneurisms down near the muzzle, and they are most frequently off to the sides, directly away from the ribs.

If it weren't for companies like RST, I don't know if I'd be as willing to shoot my previously bulged gun (despite the fact that it too was visually undetectable).
When metal stretches below a point refereed to it's YIELD point, it relaxes to it's original size or shape. When it stretches beyond the yield point, it no longer relaxes, and any additional stresses, in theory, only cause additional elongation. There's a fine balance in selecting steels. As strengths go up, ductility generally goes down.
Sherman Bell's backyard test-to-destruction was one of the best reads I ever had. Even the non shooters in the physical testing lab wanted to duplicate it. I had plenty of visits to Aberdeen proving grounds, and they could all be summed up by "HOLYSHIT"

It looks like it was just beyond the chamber and about at 10 or 11 o'clock on the left barrel. This is a no. 2 frame and the barrel is real thick on the chamber end.

mills if you can not feel or see a bulge on the out side of barrels i dont think you have a bulge.... charlie

If there's plenty of wall thickness I'd take the bulge out and keep on shooting it. If you get to watch someone take it out you'll be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to do a good job with the proper tools. If you refrain from putting the old 1-1/2oz magnum duck loads through it you'll likely be just fine. Just be smarter than the last guy was with what you put in it.

If there is no evidence on the outside, how can it be called a bulge? If the metal yielded for some reason, resulting in a spooned out section on the interior, where did the spooned out material go? Should result in a ridge surrounding the spooned out area. Is it possible the bad area was honed for some reason?

a slight bulge can be visible looking down the bore, and certainly measurable. but only barely perceptible to the touch, but not to the eye on the outside.

The bulge is perceptible to the touch, but not to the eye. I am going to have an expert look at it. If no danger, I will probably leave as is and use RST with it.

Thanks for all of the responses :bowdown: