I read Gary Carmichael's post about boiling parts. I boiled as per his instructions with one addition; I added a cigar to the recipe. The worst of the gunk has been removed from the frame and trigger guard. You guys weren't kidding about oiling right away. i could see the rust beginning form right before my eyes as the parts dried. Tomorrow they will go into the ultrasonic to get the rest.

WD-40 is like duct tape, you need a can around but for me not on guns, works good at removing soot from your hands and is a great adhesive remover. It looks like it would blister a stock finish?

The whole story is WD40 = Water Displacement, 40th formula (that's when they were satisfied with it and quit).

Like Richard I also use automotive grease on the hinge pin and other critical areas. I use the red synthetic grease. I like the color. Buy a big tube of it (automotive), put some in a baby food jar, and you have a lifetime supply of hinge lubricant for a few pennies. Use the rest on the car, lawnmower, or tractor.

White lithium grease loaded into a large syringe (minus the needle of course) gets your lube where you want it and not all over your hands. Ask your veterinarian for one next time you take Fido in for his shots or make friends with a nurse the next time you are in the ER for a sprained back doing something you should have paid someone else much younger to do.:nono:

After I disassemble and scrupulously clean my guns, I apply a good gun grease to pivot points and other high stress areas. I rest assured, knowing that the gun will stay in a state of readiness for quite some time, and that oil will not be seeping downward into the head of the stock.

I use bore butter designed for muzzleloaders. Stays in place and the yellow color is easy to make sure you get it where you want it.

For gun friction points I use grease containing molybdenum disulfide. They are marketed to the automotive industry. The moly additive to grease binds to the metal to produce a multilubricating product. They are commonly sold as "Molylube" or some similar name. My dad worked as a lubrication specialist for GM and gave me a lifetime suppy of 1/2 oz. sample tubes by the name of MOLUBALLOY. Some Moly grease products also contain graphite for additional lubricating property.
Bob jurewicz

CH, you are not the oddball you think. I have been using WD-40 exclusively on all my guns since shortly after it came to market. I too have never seen any of the varnish claimed. I have two doubles among others, one has over 100,000 rounds through it and the other in excess of 80,000 and neither have ever had a speck of rust nor have either ever needed a repair. I guess the hinge pins on these guns did not read the warning that WD-40 is not a lubricant. Both are nearly as tight as the day I bought them. My grandson will be shooting them someday.

Brownell's did a small study quite a few years ago to test the corrosion resistance of different products. WD-40 came in second only to cosmoline and similar long storage products.

Use any product you wish but for me, I'll stick with my blue and yellow can.

I find it very common to hear about the negative properties of WD-40. I've wondered that because WD-40 is sold everywhere as a "common" item it just doesn't have the same mystique as a product that is known mostly to niche markets. Has anyone ever seen any studies that show WD-40 is harmful to firearms?

It's good on crappie jigs.