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My first thought is you need to adjust the depriming station and lengthen the deprime pin so it goes completely through the primer socket. However you said you have exerted so much pressure on some that you have distorted the bottom of the hulls, this suggests the primers are somehow fused to the hulls beyond their normal friction fit. How old are the hulls, did they get wet? Perhaps they were fired with excessive chamber pressure. Does this happen with any other type of hull? If not I am guessing the problem is the particular group of AA hulls you have and if so I would pitch them and start with some fresh clean ones. There is nothing inherently wrong with AA's for reloading, I prefer the old one's and I think the Remington STS/Nitro 27 is superior but you should not be having any problem depriming them under normal circumstances.
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Are these hulls from AA's that you personally fired brand new and kept to reload or did you buy them from somebody else? What model MEC do you have and did you buy it new?
What Fred suggested will work on a hull on the bench if your only loading a few.It's a step that you shouldn't have to do. The reloader should do that properly for you. The problem is that if the primer is half out in the depriming station, you can't remove it from the reloader with that primer sticking partially down, there isn't enough clearance without bending something, probably the turret. What I do is cut the hull as close to the base as possible with a knife, then use something like a nail set or wooden dowl sharpened to a flat point and hammer the primer out. Problem with that is it drives the primer drop tube down into the fork below the base of the reloader. All in all, when this happens it's a real PITA. You need to find the source of the problem and fix it. In my case reloading Top Guns and Estates I can look inside the hull and see evidence of rust before I put them in the reloader. I'm lazy and don't want to take the time to inspect hundreds of hulls while reloading. It's that 1 in a few hundreds that gets you. |
Dave I have had this same problem, it's something in the collect fingers or at the bottom of the pocket. I removed the chain link and removed and cleaned and all is well. Good luck
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Yes after I did this it statrted working....now to figure out the crimping proccess...:banghead::banghead: |
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I like this idea. :rotf: |
I would call MEC, I have a grabber in every gauge available and have never had any problems with primers. That's an odd issue as most people have problems getting the crimp right.
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I don't own a MEC but I had the worst time with the HS shells in my PW. Primer problems, crimping problems, cocked wads. I thought for sure My loader had turned to junk. Then I went to the STS's and I'm OK. I load 28 only, but it seems that the new HS hulls are alot harder to reload. |
Dave:
At the risk of beating this long-distance problem to death, let me suggest that it may indeed be the hulls that are at fault. But not because they're the new AA HS. Instead, it may be because they've been fired in an other gun... most likely an autoloader with a sloppy chamber. Such a chamber allows the rim of the brass head to expand too much. This wider rim balks at falling completely down into the sizer collet and resting in the collet recess cut there for the rim. It stops 1/2 or 2/3 of the way down. You pull the handle and the brass head is actually extruded by the force of the collet at times. At other times, the primer is not fully punched out. Solution: follow/guide/push the hull down to full bottom in the collet with your fingers as you pull the handle for the "first reload" and you're good to go from then on. I know this from experience. But... your problem may be elsewhere. Best, Kensal |
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