[QUOTE=Chuck Heald;64571]Just my experience on oil soaked stocks. I found that removing oil by soaking in acetone did nothing, IMO, to strengthen the stocks. In fact, the oil and acetone removal of that oil, together robbed the wood of natural resins that bind the fibers of the wood together. I found that one stock was particularly affected by the oil and removal process. It had obvious signs that the fibers were not bonded as well. I addressed the situation on a couple of them by using a super thin cyanoacrylate glue to soak into the head of the stock and bind the fibers. To me, it seemed that the only area of the stock that had lost resins enough that it was a concern, was in the stock head where the oil had soaked it for decades. So, I attributed the damage mostly to the oil soaking and not the short use of harsh solvents to remove the oil. So, I have no illusions that removing oil restores strength. I think the damage is done to whatever level and only adding a binder like the cyanoacrylate glue after the oil removal will restore a portion of the original strength. Just my 2 cents.

Regards
Chuck

Chuck,

Not to dispute your opinion, but oil soaked wood is spongy and black/dark. If one sticks his fingernail into the head of a oil-soaked stock, you can feel this. If I'm going to go through the trouble of a refinish on a stock and forend, all oil possible will need to go. I use a heat gun which will draw an incredible amount of oil out of it by itself. Then comes a brushing and then a soaking in laquer thinner over night, not acetone. It takes a couple of days to fully dry once removed. If the laquer thinner is filthy, it may require soaking in new thinner. Then if I think any oil remains, to know I'm getting as much as possible it's Brownell's "Old Fashioned Whiting" (calcium carbonate). It "wicks the oil out of the pores and fibers of the wood." Keep in mind that no way does any of this penetrate all the way into/through the wood, and the many, many coats of finish restore the wood. A small amount of finish applied/brushed inside the head restores and protects from future oil contamination as well. Finish brushed onto the end of the buttstock and under the grip cap if it has one protects the wood from moisture damage. Just my opinion.

i agree shooting and reloading light loads are good on the shoulder and good on the gun...and you fellas that shoot clays and trap need them....but when im facing a turkey or have a load for a deer i want it to be loaded to the max...i shoot lite loads on doves and get my fair share but the boys shooting next to me use high brass and 1 1/4 ounce shot and weve been doing this for years...the boys shooting the heavy loads will kill more doves than us shooting the lite loads...but this is my opinon only....i learn a lot from these good threads.... charlie

My competion loads are heavy loads. The difference between high gun and 2nd is usually settled by 1 or 2 rocks. Heavy loads break more targets for me. My casual SC loads are lighter. I like using Rem sp wads and polywad spredders. Gives you normal shot sizes and room for the spreader. Works great with tight choked parkers. Dave

I shot a lot of ATA trap in the 80's and 90's and felt the same way. However it is interesting to note that a more difficult game, Bunker/Olympic/International trap is now shot with 24 gram loads. Int'l shooters have had to steadily decrease the payload from 1 1/4 ounce to 7/8 ounce and overall scores have gone up.

now thats a interesting note.... charlie

Dennis:
Pardon me if I return to the original premise: As others have said, 1 oz. loads are all that is needed in the 12-bore for sporting purposes. Given the assumption that you place your shot well, they will work fine - and save a fine Parker as well as your shoulder.

For targets, I have shot 7/8 oz loads in choked guns for decades with perfect satisfaction. And, even if the bore is cylinder, 1 oz. of #8 is effective on any sporting course if you can lead the shot. If you can't, full choke and 1 1/8 oz. won't help.

Best, Kensal

Thanks to all who offered opinions. The answers are pretty much what I thought they would be. I totally agree with using smaller shot loads for game and targets as well. I always wonder why gun and ammunition companies seem to push for turkey loads that are supposed to kill at long distances when most people call turkeys in to 30-40 yards. I have only shot one turkey and that was with a 1 1/4 ounce load of #6 lead shot. It was about 35 yards and he just fell over. My Winchester 42 probably could have done just as well. Maybe it is us that needs to spread the word that all of these monster kicking guns just aren't needed to make clean shots on game. As for damage to guns I think common sense should be the rule and each gun viewed by itself as to what loads to safely fire both for the gun and the shooter. Thanks for your answers.

Charlie,

I hunt with the same kind of fellows. On opening day they shoot at every bird from 5 yards to 100 yards with maximum loads. For every one they kill, they cripple three. Half of what they kill they never pick up, mostly because they fell a half mile away, just keep shooting. And then when the doves are all gone after the first two days they wonder why. I've had some big arguments with them, especially the ones who shoot six boxes on opening day. All I want is my 15 and then be done with it, and the fewer shells the better.

Parker Table
 

Sometimes its helpful to recall the Parker load tables

Strength Of Guns
 

If I am going to shoot a Parker more than twice. The first thing I do is have a good stock person glass bed the stock and install a staple in the head of the stock. At this point I shoot what ever I want. I check and clean the gun often, lube the hinge pin and in 50 or so years the next guy can go right on shooting the old Parker. He can do so with what ever his shot shell religion dictates. :)
David Lien