Rich,
Yes, .481 nominal (+/- .005) just in front of the rim, drawing from Clymer. My Clymer .410 reamer cut the Beshi (ICD NID) barrels nicely and easily. It took all of a couple minutes a chamber.

I ordered my CSM .410 barrels full/full. Carol said she'd write it down on the order that way but couldn't guarantee it. I told her the tubes are likely full choked when assembled and probably aren't reamed to M/IC until later. Hell, I may just have them screwchoked on this gun anyway. It's not a collectable and even less so with these aftermarket barrels.

I have used the Clymer 28 gauge full chamber and rim recess reamer that belongs to one of our members. It is a wonderful tool, hand operated, cuts like butter and takes about a minute. It does everything from the forcing cone to the rim recess. You may not even notice a chip, I didn't.

Having the reamers and headspace gauges for .410 and 28g has been worth the cost to me. That Beschi had both, tight chambers and tight headspace. The only caution I have is that if you don't have some knowledge of how to operate a reamer like this, you can damage the reamer by turning it backward or you can cut the chambers too deep and make the headspace loose enough to cause misfiring.

Just came across these on Trapshooters.com and thought you might be interested:

Subject: F/S 410 barrel hone polishers
From: Claymuncher
Email:
Date: Tue, Jan 17, 2012 - 05:14 PM ET
Website Address:
Brownell's barrel and chamber hones. One is chamber the other two are for a barrell. They are color coded (2)blue and (1)red. I imagine the blue are fine or extra fine and the red is Medium. Lengths are 34, 12 and 16 inch. I think I shortened the red so I could use it easer on the chokes and chamber. They run around fifty a piece new and these are close to new as I used them once. $45.00 for all three shipping included

Gerry,
I would use a good chamber reamer before I tried to hone out enough for proper function. The hone would be good for smoothing it up after reaming. The problem with a hone and a chamber is that you run a higher risk of messing up the chamber by flaring the end near the rim. This will cause your brass to swell and make for difficult reloading. I know this because I had a .410 that someone flared the chamber in this manner. I still haven't completed that chamber sleeving job. The chamber reamer will do the job quickly and safely. I do have some Flex-hone hones for the chamber and bore of 410 and 28g, but I wouldn't/didn't approach tight chambers with honing because of this.

I guess if new shells don't work, the solution is to go back to Tony.

I understand, just saw it and thought it might help. I would send back to Galazan and let them resolve the problem. It shouldn't have left their shop that way.

In answer to one question, the barrels only mark in any place is .410 3" ....picture attached. no made in USA no marks other than .410 3"

Left chamber measurements .4745,, .4780,, .4730,, .4750,, 4785

Right Chamber measurements .4760,, .4730,, 4790,, 4755,, 4785

I have not used a mic very much, but this might mean that the chamber is a Little elliptical not a perfect circle.

I guess I will send them back for a little adjustment toward the .4811 figure that is the standard. I am sure the customer service at CSMC will be as good as I have had in the past


PDD

Pat,
Did you inquire with the gunsmith you used locally? If he is indeed local, it might be something he'd do very inexpensively if he has the reamer.

He lives in Ellijay about 4.5 hours away from Albany so I would have to ship and to ship back to CSMC, its is not any more trouble and they cant say that I messed them up.

PDD