Bob, I had a similar situation and found that I could do the work myself and I think you could do the same. It would be a nice winter project for you.

If this were my gun here is what I would do. I'd take off the trigger guard, grip cap, and butt plate. I'd tape off the receiver where it meets the wood with painters tape. Lightly go over the stock with 0000 steel wool. Make a rubbing pad by taking cotton balls or guaze and putting them in the center of an old clean 4x4 T shirt. Close the T shirt around the cotton balls so that the pad would be about the size of a nickel and tie off the tail. You now have a rubbing pad. Get some Bullseye Amber shellac and some linseed oil. Dip the rubbing pad into the shellac so that it absorbes into the cotton. Don't make it sopping wet but more than just damp. Put a drop of linseed oil on the outside of the pad and you are now ready to apply to the stock. I'd start on a small section of bare wood to see how it matches the original finish. Keep the pad moving because the shellac dries quickly and the pad will stick to the wood if not kept moving. Use an irregular pattern such as a figure 8 on that small area. Apply more shellac and oil to the pad as needed. You'll get the feel of this when you need more shellac. If your satisfied with the look, go over the other areas of bare wood until the level of finish is about the same as the original finish, then start on the entire stock. Work in sections, one at a time and blend in that section with one that was just done until you've done the entire stock. You should be able to go right up to the checkering with the pad or if needed make a smaller pad about the size of a dime to get into the tight areas of the checkering.

It's not really hard to do French Polishing and the results are worth you trying it yourself. You'll take pride in the fact that you did it.

I'm going to try and attach an old forum post about French Polishing. Hope it works.

Chuck Bishop

Chuck,

Thanks for posting the old forum thread. It contains valuable information, as did your post. I retained it in my files.

Mark

My understanding is that shellac and boiled linseed oil do not mix together. The oil acts only as a lubricant allowing the shellac on the pad to adhere to the wood evenly. Too much oil and it will either stay on top of the shellac or migrate to the top of the shellac coat at a later time. You want just enough oil that you can rub the shellac without the pad sticking as you move it across the wood. When the pad starts to move on the surface in a jerky manner, it's time for more shellac and another drop of oil.

If I'm incorrect, Austin can comment if he reads this.

Chuck

This is a great thread. Chuck you make it sound so easy I just may have to give it a try. Wood and I dont generally get along but I have a couple of hunting guns that would benefit from a little refinish.

Dave, who are you kidding:rotf: Your a man of many talents especially at marble and on the SC course. What's also nice with the shellac, if you screw up, denatured alcohol will take it back off. Ask me how I know:whistle:

Chuck,My brother is the carpenter in the family. The stuff he can do with wood is amazing to me..but he told me long ago....please stay away from anything made outta wood.....:rotf:

Yeah, shellac is about one of the only things that denatured alcohol will harm. It works very good for softening or removing it.