Thanks John, now I feel better about mine not having the springs. Ser # 46149 fits right in there.

Mine didn't have the plunger springs, Charlie and I installed them and it stopped the gun from rattling when it was moved up and down. I think just a light pressure return spring is all that is needed to move the plunger back.

I think they're correct in that early top lever guns don't have springs and there's not much room to add one either. One could very deftly drill the pin well out to accommodate a spring but it would be a risky thing to do. I get by fine with my 1883 hammer gun with no springs. The hammers rebound and it seems not an issue.

Richard, for me it's not a question of the hammers rebounding but the firing pins float so freely that if the receiver is pointing down, such as carrying muzzle down in a cart, when you open the gun to load a shell, then try to close the gun, the firing pin/pins may protrude and not allow the gun to be closed until the pin/pins are pushed back by hand. The tip of the firing pin catches the base of the shell.

I have a top lever hammer gun in the 47K range - no springs.

Chuck: at least they move. I've seen some that were so corroded that they'd hardly move at all. It can get pretty messy in there.

Mr. Bishop,

You raise a very good point regarding a potential saftey issue.
Your concern is slightly lessened with rebounding hammers, which removes the risk of the hammer placing pressure against the firing pin and causing a slam firing issue or closing issue.

I have watched some "old timers" and others who are very hammergun knowledgeable shoot guns without springs.
They all tend to do the same thing:
1. Shells fired,
2. Gun opened,
3. Shells removed,
4. Blow down both barrels ( or just one fired barrel),
5. Load new shells,
6. Use their index finger to (Ill use the word clear) clear or push the firing pins backwards,
7. Then they close the gun. (hammer cocking sequence is different for each one some are cocked before they close the gun some after)

In my experience the "clearing" of the pins or pushing them back only works if the gun is held so they dont fall forward. I asked one of these old timers and they said they do it to make sure the pins are freely floating and not gummed up or stuck.

To date I have not had an issue following these steps. I feel like as long as the pins are moving freely they will contact the cartridge and ride up it as the gun is closed and not place any pressure enough to cause a slam fire.

All of my T/A sixteens starting at 64XXX through 79355 have springs.

Exactly what I have noticed...

I have made springs from ball point pen springs. Just cut them to length. Seems like I had difficulties getting the springs to fit in the 0 frame 16 and just left them out.

Kurt