I'm too slow at auctions and now even on a buy/sell site I watch closely. Somebody else takes a VHE home for - hold your breath my American friends, $450. No, there are no missing zeros. :cuss:

DuLite re-bluing on Winchesters or other guns turns plum colored when the bluing solution is too hot, so I am told.

I have several Winchesters, including 21's, and none are plum colored. All are deep, lustrous black, which was a hallmark of correct Winchesters.

I am not a Parker expert, but personally I do not like blued frames on Parkers, its so incorrect. I was successful with a friend's gun, bought inexpensively because of the bluing, in removing the blue by Naval Jelly, then reducing the silver frame oxidation by Flitz polishing compound. Unless a person overdoes it, the frame will not be too shiny. A little hand wear and field use and the frame will look normal.

I have seen this color on Parkers before, but only on damascus barrels.

Damascus barrels are said to be "browned" which does not necessarily mean that they are brown. Parker damascus barrels were black and white as most people know, but would gradually brown with oxidation. Here are two Bernard pattern damascus barrels that are about the same age but one is more oxidized than the other.

charcoal blue on trigger guard
 

Not sure of the charcoal blueing procedure, what would the outcome be if only the inner side of the trigger guard were to be polished and charcoal blued while leaving the outer surface original with slight browning and slightly visible pits? Also would a 220 or 320 polish be correct? Can this blueing procedure be targeted to specific areas? Thanks in advance, T.

removing bluing
 

Jack
The easiest way that I have found is to dip the parts. We use a solution of 15 % baume Phosphoric acid, cut with 25 % distilled water. Dip for ten minutes, rinse for 3 minutes in hot water. Place the parts in a bath of diluted baking soda, 2 cups to one gallon, for 20 minutes, rinse in cool water, dry parts with air. The parts are totally clean, so, polish and hold right away. Hold is available from Brownells. After stripping the parts will be a dull grey.

Brad

Thanks for the info Brad. Recipe on file

Cheers
Jack

The problem with naval jelly is that it can cause slight etching on polished metal, I found that CLR will remove blue without the etching, best part is you can buy it almost anywhere, even at a grocery store.

This may sound too simple after seeing all these various experiences in taking off bluing, but I just use "bluing remover" by Birchwood Casey. Go figure!

Bill

White Vineger will also remove old bluing from the metal. Best if soaked. It takes a little bit to work, but not too long.