Charlie, thank you for telling me of your experience with brass shells. Craig, could you tell me what you know about brass shells and smokeless powder? Why don't we ever hear about this combination?

If you have the old WIN brass hulls the interior bottom drops below the fire end of the primer . To get them to work best and be more reliable it seems you need to put something g in the bottom to bring the bottom of the powder charge up even with where the flash comes out . I’ve cut plastic discs and drilled holes in them to fit around the part of the shell the primers held in but so far I’ve not found an adhesive that I trust to hold these things in . But I ain’t given up yet .

Mr. Hoover are we shooting a lifter or a top lever Friday morning ? Nosey(ME) wants to know !

Google it on YouTube a guy on there is glueing plastic base wads in 12 gauge hulls which is where I got the idea . But I tried his method in a 10 gauge brass WIN Rival hull with hot melt glue and I didn’t care for it . Then I got a 3/4” plastic dowel Rod and cut a bunch f discs to drill and put in . Again the hot melt glue didn’t satisfy me . So when I try again I’ll try a two part epoxy maybe it’ll work maybe it won’t .

The jury is still out on that decision, it will be decided after some lead has been put downrange this week:cool:

Maybe bring both ����

I think the table theme is Long Barrels, So the top lever will definitely make the trip, probably both.

I just need to decide which it will be in the 8 gauge event.

Since my local sporting clays course will not allow larger than 12 gauge, I'll need to get down to the local club and maybe have Shane show me some targets so I can make my decision

Just shoot a five stand practice round with the long barreled one at Warrington Thursday .

Stan: Did you buy the 40" #7 frame top lever from Jeff K?

Craig,

Yes, the barrels are 38” though, need to see if I can hit anything with it yet:)

Stan