Sam, Bill Murphy explained in (very) layman's terms what you apparently need doing. It isn't overly complicated, and is the best cure for the issue of the ejectors popping the stop plate off. I would suggest speaking to Dave Fjelline, in Lincoln CA, (916) 521-1334

Bachelder still does the work and it is not the complicated and relatively inexpensive considering what gunsmiths charge. I have had two 28 gauge barrels done with no problems.

Thanks: I will call Batchelder. His last correspondence was in the $2,000.00 range, and this old boy doesn't want to pay that much.

I had a 28ga set done last year at Bachelders. I think the cost was $400ish + shipping. Here is a few pictures of the work. The first two are the broken wedge and the rest are of the repair to the wedge and install of the stop screw in the lug.

PML

Patrick, I would prefer that the doll's head stop plate be filled in, dressed smooth, and the lug screw be installed. The doll's head stop plate and screw should be eliminated entirely.

That cannot exactly happen. The shell kickers still need a guide and be able to be removed. Unless the milled slots are continued out to the end of the extension.

Thanks for bringing that up, Dudley. The cheaper solution would be to install the stop screw before the stop plate is irreparably destroyed.

Pats example above, where the plate broke is not the norm. Usually the extension is what actually fails. Allowing the plate to push out of it.

If a gun is to be shot a lot, it would be better to install the stop screw before failure of the stop plate. The screw should probably be installed at a position slightly before the ejector makes contact with the plate. The installation of the stop screw can be as neat and clean as on an extractor Parker.

Murphy: Who do you recommend?
Sam Ogle, Lincoln,NE 68510 samogle2001@yahoo.com