I Grade
 

It is an "I" grade. About 1902. Don't know about ejectors.
Jones

Yes, there was a grade I Lefever,, almost the same features as the Durstan Special, and it had fluid steel barrels. It was a bottom grade gun, but nice.

Here is a grade 3 in the 16000 serial number range which also has the firing pin bushings. All original.

While admiring the guns, I'm not a Lefever guy. But wasn't the Durston Special the 'I' grade?

1907 hardware store catalog. No 'I'

https://photos.smugmug.com/US-Makers...0catalog-L.jpg

1913 the Durston Special now listed as the 'I' grade

https://photos.smugmug.com/US-Makers...ever%203-L.jpg

1917 E.C. Simmons catalog; 'I' again

https://photos.smugmug.com/US-Makers...ver%20ad-L.jpg

I believe the left bushing has rotated out, and the hole may have been peened at some time previously to prevent it. About 1895 a copper alloy set screw was added to prevent the problem.
The bushing needs to be flush or it will crack.

https://photos.smugmug.com/LC-Smith/...ns%20003-M.jpg

The bushings were discontinued about 1905 but have been found on later guns which presumable were assembled with earlier frames.

BTW the Syracuse Grade 3 was listed at $100 = about $2,775 today.

According to Lefever book, they were offered separately, but are basically the same

Very informative Drew. In 1902 they had separate model designations, the lowest grade was in fact The Durston Special. The next higher grade was the "I" grade. Later they combined the Durston & the "I" Grade, evident in your 1917 E.G. Simmons catalogue illustration.
An interesting observation, they did not use a hinge pin. They used an adjustable detent "ball" shown in the two photos. It works well, locks up tight as possible. A very clever innovation I hadn't seen before. If it got loose just tighten it up, so simple.

Thanks Bruce, was going to post from the Lefever book, but at a tennis tournament. Earlier guns needed a spanner wrench to adjust, instead of the slotted screw. Mike Koneski recently had a run of the spanner wrench made

"I believe the left bushing has rotated out, and the hole may have been peened at some time previously to prevent it."
Correct Drew. I just happened to have the tip to remove the bushings, but the blades on the tip needed to be thinned to properly fit the grooves. The bushings have to be "timed" to be flush all the way around the edges. The threads in the receiver run deep, so it's possible to over recess them. My remedy to keep the bushings flush and secure was some blue Loctite. The bushings are smooth with the receiver face now and if the Loctite holds they won't require any more attention. It kept me busy this morning and luckily worked out well.

If this turns out inverted, think I will curse loud and long.