Thanks Dave
 

It is unfortunately, my only Parker, so I don't have a template to work from. If I don't find one, hopefully, eventually I will be able to buy another Parker and make one.

Paul,

So that we may communicate clearly please use the "Technical" reference diagrams from the PGCA main webpage. The links below will open to the diagrams and the list below provides the proper names of parts.

I thought you needed 2 seperate parts until I looked at the diagrams and realized that you need only one:

Part# 28) Safety lever and jacket

http://parkerguns.org/images/parts.jpg
http://parkerguns.org/images/tech_2.jpg

1) Right-hand hammer
2) Left-hand hammer
3) Hammer stirrup
4) Main spring
5) Main spring plunger
6) Sear
7) Sear spring
8) Right-hand trigger
9) Left-hand trigger
10) Trigger spring
11) Top lever
12) Extractor
13) Cocking slide
14) Bolt lever, with roll 15) Square top bolt
16) Round top bolt
17) Roll
18) Roll pin
19) Top lever spring
20) Trip, spring and pin
21) Unhooking slide
22) Cocking crank
23) Cocking hook
24) Cocking hook pin and spring
25) Cocking hook screw
26) Safety pin
27) Unhooking pin and spring 28) Safety lever and jacket
29) Safety slide
30) Safety slide spring
31) Sear Pin
32) Bushing for tang screw
33) Fore end lock, complete
34) Fore end lever
35) Fore end tumbler
36) Fore end lever spring
37) Guard bow
38) Trigger plate
39) Fore end iron

Yes, you are correct it is part 28. I have an old Parker diagram that shows it in 3 parts (the jacket (sleeve), the lever, and the pin), but on the site it is Part 28.

Dave: How important is the tang screw bushing and will it be a different size and length on a #1 frame as opposed to a #2? I am trying to save a beautiful piece of wood on the 20 ga. DHE I bought as it was left Proud all around. It was partly glass bedded and whoever did the work put a bushing in the back tang screw hole. Since it is fully glassed now I am thinking of glassing the front tang screw and letting it go at that. What do you or any of the rest of the group think about this? It isn't original wood anymore anyway. Lee.

The bushing's only job is to hold in the auto safety pin. Once the gun is assembled the pin is captured anyway so it really is superfluous. Many stockmakers don't even bother to reinstall it on a restock unless the customer insists for originality. It is extra work for no purpose.

Many think that this bushing also serves to preserve tang depth, like pillar bedding in a rifle stock. This is incorrect because the bottom of the parker bushing doesn't generally bear against the triggerplate.

As long as your safety jacket is inletted correctly, your tang depth is OK and your holes are straight and of appropriate size you may forget about the bushing.

Hope this helps.

Dan May

Dan: Thanks so much for the reply on the stock ferrule. I had never seen an original so didn't know of it's true purpose. I was thrown off some by the fact that in restocking Mausers over the years all the old military takeoffs had a ferrule which is still available from Brownell's and Midway. Their main use was to keep the stock from splitting at the rear tang, as a correctly bedded M-98 has a socket on the recoil lug that mates with the recess in the front of the trigger guard. This Parker has no automatic safety to begin with so a ferrule is not needed. Again, Thank You So Much!!!! I am learning more from you guys all the time. Lee.

Lee,

You're most welcome. Glad I could help.

All the best, Dan

parts diagrams
 

Is there a similar diagram for a non-ejector gun?
Kirk

There are three parts involved

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=1472

Paul,

If you want to make a the safety lever group send PS Forge a Paul Harm a PM. He has one that he is going to insert into a restock that never had one. I know this because I sold him the gun and bought the part for him from a PGCA member.

If there is a good machinst out there Paul may even loan this part to them so that they may copy it...

Mark