Wider is good for sure. If the dovetail was also deeper, the stop-plate could be thicker. If the stop-plate was thicker, there would be enough “substance” (metal) where it needs to be so that a captive screw could secure the plate, instead of relying on the weak dovetail, to take the beating from the ejectors. The screw only stops the stop-plate from up/down movement, nothing more. Smart design if the plate is intended to be sacrificial but, not so smart if there aren’t readily available spares, or if the dovetail fails b/f the plate. Neat design, poor execution.

Keavin, you have discovered that the problem is not with the bigbores.

I have never seen or heard of this stop plate issue happening with the repro 20 and 12g guns. Only the 28g. Because on those the size of the dovetail/stop plate is a lot smaller (about half the thickness).

I do, no need old one.

Yes, Dean Romig, I have made this part in the past. It’s a finicky part to make because it’s so small. It’s also very tedious. I’ve made one offs for original Parker’s because the hole in the middle is offset and may be different on different guns. I’d assume it would be the same on the Skeuse Parkers because they were CNC machined. It’s kinda a weird part! The screw only holds it in place from sliding up and down. The dove tail holds it in and the screw does not put any pressure on the back plate itself. I have a 28 Skeuse Parker and shot thousands of rounds through it and has not failed yet.

I had Brian Dudley fix mine: He did a helluva good job.
Sam Ogle, Lincoln, NE

Repair ejector stop
 

Before and after
On .410 barells