Hey Kevin, where you from--just asking 'cause I know a Kevin Quinn in West Virginia,and could take a look at it or point you in the right direction.

Unfortunately I live in California, but from what I've read and all of your opinions so far, it seems like it's always up to the owner to take the risk of shooting the firearm. I've got some brass shells and black powder, so I'll see what my smith thinks, and go from there thanks everyone for your feed back I really appreciate it.

I have never measured the WT on my tens, but .030 sounds a lot better than .020. What do the rest of you think?

The barrels on my 10 have a mwt of .045. I think if you are dealing with original 10 gauge barrels you will be hard pressed to fine .030 mwt much less .020 but most everybody's opinion on this forum is .020 and up is safe to shoot.

"As long as the barrel thickness is above 20 thousand, and the pitting within the barrels isn't deep it should safe to shoot right?"

No Kevin. If your gunsmith does not have the interest, expertise, and equipment (wall thickness gauge and bore scope) to properly evaluate the barrels, and can provide you with wall thickness measurements at the end of each chamber, the forcing cones, 9" from the breech, 9" from the muzzle and MWT and the location thereof, you need a second opinion. "Should be safe with light loads" is very dangerous advice.

Kevin,

The patrons of this web forum have seen and discussed casualties of those that had a bad case of "The bound to's and can't help its." If you are so infected and decide to shoot your 140+ year old Parker with brass shells and black powder or Pyrodex CTG, etc. I suggest you load 1 oz of shot over 2 3/4 drams of powder. Use paper wads because plastic wads will melt a little on the way out the barrel. This leads to foul language when you clean the barrels. Are your brass shells extruded or turned? Oh, the load I mentioned will break clay targets all day long plus kill small game and birds. Most of us that shoot our old Parker 10's with modern powders load them lite with 1 1/8 oz at or under 1200 fps.

Kindesty, Harry

Again thank you everyone for your insight and knowledge, I won't shoot it without an ok from a gun smith who knows what he's doing and has the proper tools to verify its safety. I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to antique firearms. And if it becomes a wall hanger so be it I'll cherish it just the same.

I guess we all realize that about 98% of licensed gunsmiths do not own or have access to a wall thickness gauge or a bore micrometer. You are your own gunsmith when it comes to barrel safety.

Kevin, in the past damascus guns that I wanted to shoot I tested myself. I tied the top rib to the top of an inflated tire very securely. I then tied about 30 ft. of string to each trigger. At this point I loaded the gun with heavy loads, slid the safety to off, walked back to the end of string, laid flat on the ground wearing SAFETY GLASSES and a HARD HAT/HELMET, and with my face against the ground pulled each trigger individually. With the test completed I checked the gun dimensions against established dimensions which I had determined before the test. Finally look for cracks, bulges, loose ribs, barrels on face, and that bores conform to there previous condition. Utilizing this test built my confidence and I was able to enjoy the gun afield. Kevin in the end you have to determine what works for you.

Firestone Test. I hid behind the bulldozer.