My understanding is the EH and NH designations were used as the 10ga in grade 1 and 2 were $5 more than any other gauge in the same grade. I am guessing when the EH and NH designations were dropped the price of 10ga was the same as any other gauge in the same grade, correct?

If you could post the serial number, we could look and see if it is listed in "the book". If it is, it will tell you if its a 12 or a 10 as well as the grade and original barrel length.

Yes Pete they were $5 more and just to clarify the NH,EH designation was dropped around the time the "Pine Cone" catalogs were issued in 1907.

We're talking major varnish-like grease on all metal parts that was solidified and could not be wiped off but chipped off with a coin in spots. What do you use to get that stuff off? I don't want to hurt the wood. I have the directions posted on this website to dismantle a Parker so we can do that if we have to,but would rather not.

Maybe like military Cosmoline??
 

Grease on the barrels and receiver parts- hard like varnish. Is this same grease also on the stock and forearm as well? And at present you cannot open the gun, nor remove the forearm and the barrels from the receiver in the usual manner? Wow-- this is a "puzzlement" indeed.

I know how we'd remove the Cosmoline from the bores of the Garands and Soringfield 1903's in the Armory- but that was just on ordnance steel and no stocks- also mainly in the bores, then the barrels were wrapped in special rust proofed brown paper and taped closed for shipment or storage.

Perhaps a form of paint stripper such as Formby's or WATCO, but try it on the barrels as see- wonder what the wood finish on the stock and forearm is like under a layer of that hardened grease? Good luck indeed.:bigbye::bigbye:

They kept most of it off the wood but the metal parts are coated with whatever it is.I'll try some stripper. Never thought of that . Thanks for the idea.

I have used Hoppe's #9 to remove oil that had turned to varnish like consistency.

I'll stand the barrels in a metal tube I have and try different stuff. We tried #9 with just a rag and it wouldn't do anything but perhaps a good soaking will do the job.At least the stuff kept away the rust as what we can see of the metal is in very good shape.

All in a well ventilated area as well
 

Bob- just an after thought- if I were doing this to a set of older barrels, I might consider plugging both the muzzles and breech with cork plugs, and possibly using a 4" dia length of PVC pipe with caps rather than a steel tube or iron pipe-if for no other reason than the stripper or whatever compound we figure out to be best won't "migrate" to the ID of the metal pipe- you want as close to 100% on the heavily coated tubes.:bigbye::bigbye:

Soften the crud, with the solvent of your choice, and use bronze wool and brass toothbrushes to remove the deposits. The brass and bronze will not harm any remnants of bluing or natural aged patina. The brass brushes are easily found in your local hardware emporium in the plumbing/soldering aisles. Good luck!