I may be wrong, but without dropping the hammers, the sears will exert downward pressure and it may make the safety operated manually forward and opened with the lever have little or no resistance, but having dropped both hammers, and then opening have greater resistance as the trigger is now in a more upward position, not held in check by the cocked sears.

The best test would be to do it both ways, first without having fired on snap caps, push the safety off to see if it is harder when opening, and then back and open to see if there is not the hitch anymore.

Then try it after firing, and feeling for the hitch when opening. If it is greater it is the safety lever meeting resistance as it is pushed over the trigger.

Brian can easily fix any problems.

Jerry,

Yes, it is possible that the hammer position can potentially come into play as you describe. Ideally it would not, but you never know.
John did reach out to me yesterday and he is supposed to be getting the gun to me to see what is going on. I will report back on this thread with my findings. I am curious to see what is going on myself.

As a followup on this thread,

Once I got the gun in hand, it was very clear as to what the issue was right away.

The issue with the gun was that as the trigger selector block came up with each pull of the trigger, it made the safety difficult to push the block back down when resetting the trigger. It was able to be felt when firing one barrel, but when the block comes all the way up when both pulled is when the issue was really felt.

There was too sharp of an angle on one particular little part that made the safety lever not able to smoothly move the block down.

I reshaped this area and cleaned up the surfaces and it works perfectly now.

I did compare the part against other guns on hand and it was not shaped right.