Dean, a lot of people park on the road so I guess that's off site, but when you get there turn in and yes I guy will stop you, just tell him you are with the Parker/LCSmith group and you are going to park down there and just go past all of the tents and at the end of the road you will see one more tent and cars parked all around. Hope that helps and we'll see you at Drakes on Thursday

Here is how I would address that stock……..I would very lightly sand the whole stock so that the color is the same. I would then fill the open pores with the mud method using multiple iterations of tung oil as a pore filler. It should take about three iterations. Then you can finish up with Timberlux wiping down each iteration with a clean cotton cloth building microscopic layers till you get the look you want. I would probably do the same to the forend so that all matches.

Tom,
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like the parking situation will be easier than I had thought. I have a golf cart, but no real way to get it down to Sanford (what a shame).

Tom, et al,

How do you deal with avoiding checkering when using this method on the forend, or the stock for that matter? Is the idea to avoid the checkering all together, or is this done only when re-chasing or re-checkering is intended? I'd love to hear some thoughts. Obviously very fine sandpaper is used, but I can't imagine using any sandpaper and not doing some damage to the checkering. My assumption here would simply be to take great care to avoid checkering at all costs.

Best,
Dean

Sounds like a job for someone more versed in refinishing and repair.

I'll tell you my method and you can decide whether you want to try it yourself. I carefully avoid the checkering when light sanding. Then I use the mud method and when the pores are filled, I finish up with Tru-Oil or you can use Timberluxe if you choose. I then carefully tape off the area around the checkering with duck tape. Some finish will inevitably get into the checkering no matter how careful you are. I then very carefully spread finish remover on the checkering being very careful. I let it sit for 5 minutes and then take an old tooth brush and remove the finish in the checkering working in both directions of the checkering. When this is done I strip off the duck tape carefully. This will also remove old dirt from the checkering. Then brushing in a very light coat of finish on the checkering will protect it and make it the same color as the stock. Be careful to go lightly. If any finish gets on the stock just wipe if off with a clean cotton cloth. The very thin layer of finish brushed into the cleaned checkering will sink into the wood.

Before I brush finish into the checkering, I’ll deepen the checkering if needed and work on the mullered borders. The border usually has the most wear. But this last step should only be done by those well versed and experienced in checkering Parkers. Otherwise, the checkering should be left alone.

Brian,

I have a pile of old stocks and other wood from my woodworking exploits. I'll be practicing on these items before touching anything of value. My refinishing experience comes from my woodworking hobby and a antique business my wife and I owned. I am not a professional by any stretch, but I imagine I will find familiar territory once I've practiced a bit. Furthermore, I will continue to utilize this forum and opportunities such as the Southern to get more advice and input before I begin. I certainly hope this sheds light upon my intentions and the weight I place on the importance of treating any item of value with respect before beginning work.
Finally, I understand and respect your concern for the damage done to countless double-guns by the ubiquitous bodge-smiths that pollute our ranks. Please know that I look upon these and any other repairs regarding my guns with similar respect. I do not touch anything without first learning, practicing, and building the skill and confidence needed to undertake any project.
Should I determine that this or any other repair is outside my skill level, I will dutifully save my money and defer to a qualified and fully vetted professional, such as yourself.

I by no means am campaigning.
And of course I have no knowledge of your level of experience in wood finishing. Which it sounds like you have enough of a background to be a help in this endeavor.
Simply proceed carefully and do no harm.