![]() |
You have a very nice 16 and should feel good about what you paid for it. Take care of it, and send us all some pictures of the game you shoot with it (or if you are into clays, some pics for that). I have two grade 2 16s, none as light as yours, but both on the "0" frame. They are a delight to shoot.
|
Quote:
|
Are there any records that show how many 16 gauge 0 frames hammer guns were made?
|
Yes there are records that show those numbers but to the best of my knowledge they can only be found in the Grades section of The Parker Story.
$700 is outrageously cheap!! That would make me really gun-shy (to coin a phrase) and I would worry a LOT about what's wrong with the gun..... like unsafe barrels..... I recommend that you DO NOT shoot it until the barrel walls are properly measured. The refinish looks like a decent job and it only INcreased the value of the gun, judging by the extreme wear to the buttplate - I'm pretty certain the gun was in pretty poor condition. Sorry to rain on your parade (I love lightened 0-frame 16 hammer guns as much as anybody - I've had six or seven of them and still have four) but you need to know the truth. . |
And, the tables (based on records) do not go into frame sizes.
|
Thanks for the info. Really don’t care about the value. I’m just excited about an old Parker. I am taking it to a reputable gunsmith to get it checked out. If it passes, I will be hunting with it. My grandfather had one, but was regretfully stolen many years ago. This one is here to stay.
|
Mr Schilb - just on the off chance you may not know... The barrel wall thickness needs to be measured fully around each tube and for it's entire length.
The most critical areas are at the forward end of the chamber where the forcing cone begins and for at least 12" - 15" forward of that. Also of concern is the forward half of the barrels ( keeping in mind that the rear half of the barrels absolutely need sufficient thickness - far greater than the front half) where the minimum thickness should be .025" or thicker. Some folks are comfortable with a bit less but I would never advise less than .025" I say all this because not all "reputable gunsmiths" know how to properly measure antique shotgun barrel walls. Please get back to us with the measurements your smith comes up with. We can give good advice based on his accurate measurements. Regards, Dean . |
I will, Dean. Thanks.
|
You should consider a membership to PGCA. It will save you some money on a letter for your gun and there are many other benefits. You would get a lot of enjoyment and additional knowledge from the accompanying subscription to Parker Pages.
|
Two Years Later
Nothing like Coronavirus to help me to do things on my "to do" list. I did take everyone's advise and joined. And, I did get the letter on my old shotgun, which was very informative. It was as follows:
Dear Mr. Schilb, Parker shotgun, serial number 43607, was ordered by Hart & Co. of Louisville, KY on June 9, 1884 and shipped on October 18, 1884. According to Parker Bros. Order Book No. 16, it was a Quality G, Top Action Hammer gun, 16-gauge. It featured Damascus steel barrels with a length of 28 inches. Price was $80.00 plus $15 for a 16 bore gun. According to Parker Bros. Stock Book No. 16, the stock configuration was a capped pistol grip and its specifications were: Length of Pull: 14-1/4, Weight: 7 pounds and 2 ounces. According to Parker Bros. Order Book No. 30, the gun was returned on September 29, 1891 by E.G. Sebree of Hendersonville, KY to install a new butt plate, clean and reblue barrels, and tighten up the action for a price of $8.50. It's pretty cool finding the history out about this gun. Owned by a Kentucky Colonel who was a Railroad Baron who even has a town named after him. Quite the history! |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:46 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1998 - 2025, Parkerguns.org