While dims are close there are minor differences in primer sizes, this complicated by hull primer pocket differences . Problem I have is not pushing the handle hard enough when switching from AA hulls to Remington. No doubt a good strong push seats the Win Primer in a Remington hull. Takes me a few ruined hulls to get into sync. Same thing with Green Gun clubs I use for spreader loads. For some reason the 12 G steel GC less of a issue than STS 20s or 12 G Gold Nitros & the GC hulls cost nothing, pitch high primer hulls easily.

All probably looking linked to operator error, using AA hulls and Winchester primers reduces operator error.

William

Remington primers are tapered on the end where as no other primer is. I don't have one in front of me but from memory I believe they're also a tiny bit shorter. The 28ga hull has plastic going over the primer pocket opening and limits how far a primer will go in. I don't remember the number drill number right now [ broken foot- can't go down to the reloading room and check ] but a quick in and out and the plastic is cleared so any primer will work. I also use Mec reloaders - 600, 650, grabber, and 9000H - and never in 45 years of reloading have I had a problem with any Remington 12 or 20 ga hull. I'm not sure why any of you guys are but I guess it is what it is.

Back to your original question - what you have is great and will work but the problem you'll have is load height of the components. It will work if you roll crimp because the roll crimp uses less shell for the crimp. If you still want to fold crimp you'll have to use fiber wads or as I've done in the past use a wad meant for 1 3/8oz. It will have a shorter cushion, bringing the total load shorter. I believe I used a CB-1138 and put 7/8 or 1oz of shot in it. The petals will fold over with the shell when crimped. 2 1/2" shells look cool, and Nitro's are a really good shell. Almost as good as the old Blue ones, but nothing beats one of them for reloading. If you do decide to roll crimp you'll also need a tool to open the crimp back up after firing it. I save the roll crimps for shells I'm going to throw away, not nice Nitro's or STs's. Good luck, hope this helps.

On my MEC Size-Master I use a washer on the primer seater to increase the length and have no problems with high primers. I remove it when using Winchester and Cheddite hulls. Simple and works a champ!

Paul, thanks for the tip on reloading Remington 28ga. hulls. The drill bit clears the primer hole but hits the plastic so it doesn't go completely through. Drilled out the plastic and the primers seated no problem. It adds 2 steps to the reloading process (knocking out the primer, and reaming the hole with the drill), then reloading. I'll do this on the Remington hulls I have, then switch to Winchester or Federal. I don't have any once fired 20ga. Gun Clubs to check but I suspect they are the same due to my problems loading primers in them. I did check once fired Remington Premier 12ga. hulls and they also will not allow the drill bit to go completely through the primer pocket. Not a problem as I only load Federal in 12ga.