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On my DH the forend is on there as tight as it can be. One cannot pull it off once on. However, the slightest pull on the forend lever releases it, so Edgar is correct. That is why taking the wood off and just putting the forend iron on probably won't tell me anything in my opinion.
The inertia of the recoil moves the lever enough to disconnect the forend after firing. |
Just a suggestion Jerry. I would try putting a shim between the toggle leaver and the spring to stiffen the spring and increase pressure on the toggle. If that works than your spring is getting weak.
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Jerry, with the forend in place on the barrels can you move the forend rearward even a few thousandths? Is there any front to rear travel at all?
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Amen !
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As we say in the South, "as tight as a tick." When I pull the fore end lever a few hundreds of an inch, it comes off. But putting it on one can feel it securely lock in place, as the lever moves out as the fore end tumbler, part 35, tumbles into place under the barrel lug. |
Hmm... Presuming those barrels are tight and on face it makes one wonder how the latching of the forend could have gotten so out of adjestment as all it can do to become out of adjustment is to wear out of adjustment.
I fit a set of orphaned barrels to one of my Parkers and the forend wouldn't even stay on at all. My brother-in-law is a Navy certified welder of turbine engine parts and he welded some material to the rear face of the forend lug which I dressed down to cause the rear face of the forend iron to fit snugly against the knuckle face of the frame. And he welded some material to the hook at the front of the lug, which I also dressed to a perfect fit so that the latch worked flawlessly. I know this isn't in everybody's budget and I'm glad I didn't have to pay to have it done. There are probably shortcuts to the route I took and I hope you are able to finally get yours working properly. Best, Dean . |
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