The "case color" on a Parker Reproduction is entirely different from original or even restored bone charcoal case colors. I would be very, very careful about what 'chemicals' I would apply to the "case colors" (which are not the result of color case hardening but are an applied stain) on a Repro.





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Thanks Dean. For clarification the info I seek does not pertain to PR's.

Actually Randy, my response was to Steve Hodges' opening question and anyone else who might be considering applying anything to their Repro's case colors. I've seen those applied colors flake off almost as often as I have seen them prematurely wear off.





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I had "case colors" flake off my RBL. They covered the re-do, no charge

Weren't the RBL's case colored with the authentic bone & charcoal case coloring process?

I’ve applied lacquer to a few items w/cc, including a P. Reproduction or two. I wipe with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol first, and haven’t ever had any issue whatsoever. Tip - use a lint free cloth.

Greg - Not unless real case colors flake off around the top lever axle

UK gunmakers always used boiled linseed oil. Sometimes a bit of Japan dryer is added. (Which is exactly what Linspeed is) Tru-Oil works fine. Use a tissue, but some are much more 'lint-free' than others.

Oscar Gaddy told me years ago that he used TESTORS clear ...as in model paints...to protect the colors...

I saw something about a year and a half ago concerning a company that makes metal patinas that will replicate this chemical case coloring. It was not Steel FX. These were much bolder colors. I wish I could remember who it was making these, they even had a nice video showing how to color a receiver. Best I can recall, someone over on the 16 ga. site posted it, possibly as a reply. if I find out I will pass it along for anyone wanting to restore theirs.