Sorry, couple more pics I forgot to post......

and a question about the best way to treat the little spot of rust on the butt plate. Dont want to use the wrong thing. Suggestions?
Thanks again...
Wendy

http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/y...r/IMG_3118.jpg

http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/y...r/IMG_3106.jpg

Have you sent for a research letter on this gun? You may find out who CDD is through the letter.

Best way to treat the rust spot on the skeleton steel buttplate is to very carefully remove it from the stock using the correct turnscrews (as discussed many times on this forum) and have it professionally treated and (at your discretion) possibly reblued. Treating the rust spot while the buttplate is still on the stock is to invite possible damage to the original wood finish.

Hello Wendy: As Dean and Bill pointed out, your Parker would be much more valuable if you still had the original barrels (the barrels that you have are definitely from Liege Belgium see the "lg" on the barrel flats), but you still have a very valuable gun. It was not uncommon after Parker ceased production for a gun to be sent to Belgium for rebarreling. I would certainly order a research letter from PGCA. It may tell you who the original consignee was and possibly the original owner, all the pertainent measurements and perhaps a lead on where the original barrels now reside.

Best Regards and Welcome, George

Regardless of who made the bbls, that is a very nice looking D grade. Great wood. I'm surprised you didn't keep bidding Bob! I coulda used it on geese this fall!

Well I am glad that Bob didn't keep bidding! It allowed me to get a Parker at a price I could afford! lol Thanks Bob!! Sorry about your goose hunting Richard....
My husband and I know alot more about rifles than we do about shotguns, but I have been looking at older double barrels, drillings etc for quite awhile now so was very happy to find this one! I think my husband is afraid though that this may only be the beginning..........

I am going to send for a letter and see what info that brings to the table.

Is there anything I should know before taking it out in the field?
Anything I need to be careful of, are certain types of shells, shot etc better in these guns? normal or reduced loads?

My husband thinks the 70/12 on the barrel flats indicates 70mm or 2 3/4" length shells, is this correct?

I know I am being a bother with all my questions but I would like to do things properly the first time around rather than botch it up.

Thanks for all your help!!
Wendy

Yes, that is the european designation for 70 mm or 2 3/4" chambers and 12 gauge. David

It's a pretty light gun, Richard. More suited to grouse than geese. A very nice straight grip, and it is as good as the pictures show. I am curious about the frame size. 1 or 1 1/2 I would guess. Wendy, would you measure the distance between the firing pin holes from center to center? We should be able to tell you the frame size with that.
Wendy, I usually use Winchester AA low recoil/low noise for grouse. I find they're all I need and easy on the wood. It sounds like you might live in pheasant and sharptail country. There are a lot of guys on this board that could give you better advice than I for those birds. Oh, and your husband is right to be afraid. One old quality double is too many, and 100 aren't enough.
Richard, are you going to make it down to Debolt this year? Trigg was figuring around the end of the first week of October? Should be fun, I hope you can make it.

I am hoping to meet him in Minnesota and drive back west and north with him. Depends when it freezes up here at the mine.

We should meet up on your way back. There will likely still be some geese around in mid October.

From center to center of the firing pin holes is 1.1 inches


Thanks for all your help gentlemen!

Wendy