"wow..."

My intent is not to disguise the gun, and misrepresent it as an 'original' Meriden Parker, but to merely change the cosmetic characteristics which I don't care for, in favor of those on early Meriden guns. I do not like the blunt bull nosed later style fore end, and also prefer the more delicate nose to the comb. As for the muddy plastic appearance of the wood finish, well, I think I've heard you on that topic, and while the wood is being addressed, we certainly agree there are one or two craftsmen who do know what mullered borders should look like. . My reasoning is simply to address the adage akin to not hunting with a gun that will embarrass your dog' ,I want to at least like looking at the gun. Of course, it would be easy enough to strike the "Parker" engraved on the underside of the receiver, and leave the banners blank, as would be the case of transition Parkers. As I recall my old GHE28 had no name on the receiver what ever. Likewise I do not intend to remove the Winchester nomenclature, or have the barrels properly rust blued.

If, on the remote chance that all your questions were to only wind me up, as you are often want to do, I would simply say............Bugger Off.

I'll accept the "Bugger Off" Edgar, as that was my intent..... :clap:


(Edgar and I really are pretty good friends for those who might be in doubt.)





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Gentleman: I edited my question to express the way I intended to ask it. Thanks for any replies.

What's the approximate cost to case color a Repro?

It is likely best to ask those who do the work.
Case coloring itself is typically a base price that is published by most all vendors who do it. Prep and polishing would typically be above and beyond and will vary based on the vendor and the job.

John Gillette did a superb job case coloring a Ken Hurst engraved A1 special that I had a few years ago. Still have some seller's regrets on that one...

My GH done by John Gillette.

On a repro that has little use but case colors are fading what is the cost?

The only note i have to add about case coloring repros is that the tang screw block on the trigger plate is a separate piece that is soldered in place (for some reason). So, the part has to be tack welded in place before case coloring or else it will fall out in the quench.

Parker reproductions have such beautiful wood but colors fade fast. Original Parkers colors last for over 100 years. Which is better, old or new? I have both.