Details on this years shoot will be posted this evening

I have a late Parker of the same configuration but the chokes aren't quite that tight. It's the best duck gun I have. I love it. It's heavy enough to soak up recoil from stout loads.

Regarding the chokes on mine, I was going by what I was told years ago. I am not sure where they came up with full and extra full but I measured the diameters last night and came up with .695 and .725, which would be full and skeet according to what info I have read.
Did barrels come configured this way normally? Thanks, John

Not uncommon. A very useful combination.

Hi John and welcome. The left floor plate screw is not aligned with the long axis of the gun. The two screws may have been removed and not replaced correctly. The left screw will have a score line on the base. If the screw on the left does have the score, it has been over tightened.

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=1476

Please ignore the comment about a + sign. I have long since learned that is on the middle screw when all screws are the same length. Need to revise this pic

Thanks for the welcome and the information guys.

I do a lot of duck hunting in small rivers where the first shot is always 20 yards or less and the second shot is further out. I think this Parker will work nicely for that, a third shot usually doesn't happen so only two rounds is fine.

I still remember my first duck hunt 35 years ago when I was 13 like it was yesterday, I had gotten an early 40's Savage Fox model B 12ga the previous Christmas from my parents, I can still see that green headed mallard with his wings set and orange legs hanging down reaching for the water. I shoulder the savage and fire, he's still in the air, I fire again, he flies off with not a feather out of place. LOL, I heard about for years after. Thankfully my wing shooting improved since then and have taken lots of ducks and geese.

I am patiently waiting with anticipation for the research letter to arrive. I have been reading all the past posts absorbing what info I can.
Thanks again, John

Early guns have the long rear screw like in Jacks photo. But later guns have a short rear screw (which is the same length as the front screws). On these guns, the rear screw was marked with an "X" on the bottom.

And then Jack says left side for the "-", he means left side of gun, which is your right side when you are looking at the bottom working on the screws.

Brian, my Trojan 20 has one front screw that is about 1/4 out of line. Do you see this on Trojans or are my screws probably not in the correct hole?

Alfred - knowing that even the Trojans had correctly aligned (timed) screws, two possibilities come to mind. They may be in the wrong holes, as you suggest, or that screw may have been over-tightened at some point.





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Thanks Brian, I was wondering which left was meant. I checked mine and the indexed screw was in the proper side, I swapped them and they were both off. It appears as though the left was over tightened at some point. I haven"t researched a fix for that yet as I am looking at a cracked wrist. I posted some pics in the Restoration section of it. I am not sure of my best course of action. Thanks, John