Me either about No. 9. Ballistoil also works great with frontier pads.

Took the case colors off a 16 of mine. I only use G96 for all around cleaning and only Rem Oil on outside surfaces

I don't like Rem Oil at all... It doesn't stay. Almost like it "beads up".






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If you can find it, real sperm oil works well to liquefy proud rust but doesn't seem to harm bluing. I just dab it on with a fingertip and leave it there as long as you can. (sometimes for a week) Then I use the Frontier 45 pad to wipe it off. It sort of looks muddy before you wipe it off...

If I find any surface crud on my guns, I'll spray a little G96 on a Frontier Pad and scrub it off. When I'm cleaning the interior of barrels after a shoot, I'll spray G96 on the brush which also has a few strands of a Frontier Pad wrapped around the bronze brush, then scrub the interior surfaces before running the patches through. One can not say enough about Frontier Pads for cleaning interior/exterior surfaces without harm. I prefer G96 over all other cleaning agents (I don't find this stuff in too many places) as it cleans without harming case colors or blued surfaces. My experience only.

I don't think Hoppes No.9 would be around for nearly a hundred years if it removed bluing. I can believe it might stain or have some effect on cold bluing (Birchwood Casey or Brownells Oxpho Blue), but not cold rust bluing, hot bluing, or nitre bluing.

Just got a new bunch of Frontier pads. They're selling a new lube/cleaner/protectant called Safari Charlie so I ordered a bottle. Just tried it on a 1 frame 16 project and it did a good job. I still use WD-40 when I'm serious with the rust. Safari Charlie cuts the hardened gunk right out of screw slots but haven't used it long enough to see it's full potential.

Big45metalcleaner.com is the website.

Joe

Edgar, we won't be around for a hundred years, must be something wrong with us! LOL