Track of the Wolf sells a thing called a "bag mold" same as what the longrifle guys carried back during the revolution period . And you can buy them for about $40 I think . Mold has no sprue plate , but has cutters in the handle to lop the sprue off . Old guys used to say roll round balls between two pieces of glass to kinda round the cut sprue area to make them a bit more round where the flat spot is or was .

No luck with the buckshot. The 710 shot right on the 10 ring at 50 yards - 690 about 4 " right. That 710 has a tad bit of recoil.

Try some smaller buckshot . I found in the ones I have , the tight barrels seem to like the somewhat smaller shot .

In my Ithaca NID 10 gauge I load of all things #3 Buck in the right barrel and 000 in the left barrel and that guns choked tight and tighter .

I have an LC Smith Quality 2 10 gauge that likes #1 buck in both barrels . My Parker Grade 2 top lever hammer gun and my EH both seem rather happy with 0 Buck .

Now with all that in mind very rarely do I ever take a shot with buckshot past 30 yards unless I'm shooting at a wounded animal . Also bear in mind ALL of the buckshot I've loaded to date for the 10 gauge has been in a SP-10 wad with the petals still attached . And lately everything gets WIN Grex buffer .

I'm going over to a local muzzle loading gun shop next week. I'll take a 10ga shell and wad and try different size RB's in it to see what will stack flat.

000 will stack flat 2 to the layer

00 with stack flat 3 to a layer, however when you're done you can feel slight bulges on the outside of the shell , but they still go in and shoot okay

0 will stack flat 3 to a layer

1 will stack flat 4 to a layer

I have tried 2 that was a little loose 4 to a layer and #3 #4 were pretty much dump them in .

The idea of 0000 Buck or .375" roundballs intrigues me . And as I said earlier that's not going to be a Remington SP-10 wad propostion . However those balls in a brass shell with more shall we say classic wads is interesting . Someone here got some of the new Parker headstamp brass shells from Track of the Wolf and made turkey loads . I think his same loading procedure with these bigger balls might be a winner or atleast good enough for me to pot a porr unsuspecting deer inside say 25 yards . Even in the brass shell I think I would try and get a mylar or feflon wrap around the shot to help it scoot down the barrel a bit better .

You can buy .710 round balls from midway. I shoot them in my Pedersoli safari rifle.

Craig, what is the diameter of the different buckshot ? Digging through my molds I finally found my 690 and 710 molds and a 350. Have you ever used a filler to keep the balls in place ?

The reason I ask about buffer is that years ago in another life [ early 1970's ] when lead was legal for waterfowl I used a MLing 8ga O/U I had made with 400grs of 1F and 4 oz of shot - 30 .30cal RB's. We hunted farm fields and I couldn't hit anything - about 30yds away. Got back home and a fellow showed me a article from White Laboratories . It was high speed photos of buckshot that didn't use buffer and wasn't in layers - all the shot went every which way 15 feet out of the barrel. They claimed the balls needed to be stacked flat and buffer used to keep them from trying to go into the space ahead of them as they went down the barrel. Using a MLer, I just dumped them in after the cushion wad was seated. I never had a reason to try buckshot again till now, but enough buck in a 10ga sounds like a good close range deer load. The only buffer I've seen for sale is from BPI. Anyone else sell it ?

Quick question on buffer. Doesn't it increase PSI? Is there a rule of how much buffer and increase of PSI of the load?

Years ago, I loaded turkey shells with copper 6's and buffered with GREX. Haven't done anything since then. Is GREX stilll the buffer of choice?