Once you get the areas bedded Scot, please let us know if that fixed the ringing issue.

Mike & 10 bore - I did actually put a hair dryer on the area w/no success but I didn't heat it up all that much..has worked well for other projects, especially using the tip of an iron as 10 bore suggested.

Joe - I hear you on that (an overkill drift pin)..fact is I can make one up in all of about 5 minutes & the pin can be kept w/the gun for future maintenence so I don't mind the extra effort at all + I'm a big fan of bronze or brass for gun work.

Taking it one step further - another thing I like to do with drift pins which are intended for exposed pins w/a rounded end such as the Parker. When making the drift pin I drill a center hole in the tip..this provides for much more surface contact with the pin that you are driving and avoids flat spots on the pin as well.

I mounted the receiver up in the mill and it worked perfectly - it took very little turning the chuck by hand to nudge the screw loose. Once removed the screw threads had a hint of corrosion & of course the gun has been setting untouched for many years so..

Greg - got everything apart and it is hard to tell whether a little bedding is going to work..if I get any in there it sure isn't going to be much so I'm going slow and having a good look at everything. In any case I will be sure to update any progress and of course whether I'm successful.

One thing I did notice is that the entire interior is bone dry. No aged oil or anything.

I hope everybody had a nice Christmas

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Scott, Nice work. Machinist huh? I can tell by your language. When reassembling the gun do not lubricate the single trigger mechanism if the gun is so equipped.

Thanks Dave - yes, I am a Machinist..still haven't finished this project up w/the holidays and all..not convinced a bedding job will do the trick.

Finally took the time to get this done

..didn’t have much confidence that it would deaden the vibration entirely but also did not like the flex between the tangs when tightening up the rear tang screw so figured I’d just go to it since the gun is taken down. Although I didn’t take any photos topside, I was very cautious to avoid allowing any bedding to make its way directly behind the upper tang as there is the slightest gap there..as there should be. The inletting of the actioned frame was executed beautifully from the factory having full contact in all the right places offering every bit of support that the design intends.

Results?


Yes it reduced the vibration quite a bit so in a sense it worked..there are 2 additional things that I could do which would deaden it for good..but I’m not going to go to those lengths on it as it’s just not worth it.

There was another element to my curiosity here..I’ve never been inside a Parker before..now that I have (and I’m not sharing anything new here of course) - wow.

I cannot claim experience inside the “real thing”..that said…I just cannot imagine that they are built to any higher degree outside of the fact that the zero tolerance approach was met with the advent of CNC technology + my GUESS that some hands on fitting during assembly was employed during the manufacture of the Reproduction…notice the capital R..it is fitting, these are nice guns.



..Mr. Dudley..thank you for the illustrated primer that you drafted and made available in the FAQ section..it was very helpful and I’m glad that I went into the gun..the internals were bone dry & my shotgun is now properly set up to enjoy for what I hope to be a lot of years to come….pup sure seems to get awful happy when I’ve got it in hand :)

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