Those pins are fixed. You need to remove the side plates to see the lock mechanism. If I recall, those pins, on the inside of the lock plates, are what the screws that hold the locking mechanism in place screw into. You don't have to take the hammers off to take the side lock plates off.

If you take the plates off, when you put them back on, remember to move the trigger flat out of the way.

Thanks Chuck

What you refer to as "pins" are the three bride screws (four on grade 3 and higher guns) and one sear axle. All of which are threaded into the lock plate.

Once you have the plates out, look at both of them side by side from the back side. Move the hammer so you can see what is going on. It should be apparent as to what the issue is when you can see everything.

Guy's thanks for the heads up about the "pins", better put my drift and 8 pound hammer away. I guess all I need to do is remove the screw and the side plates should be good to come out? The fit looks really tight, any tricks I should know about so I don't bugger it up? Thanks for the help.

When you remove that screw (using the proper sharp screwdriver) put a drift or nail through the vacant hole and against the back side of the opposite lock plate and very gently tap the drift until the plate comes away from the head of the stock. Then the lock plate has to be moved rearward about 1/8" or less and then lifted out of the gun. It is relatively easy to do and its simplicity is amazing. Just go slowly and gently.

Thanks Dean