Thank you to all who have come to my aid! I have just put the first (of many I presume) coating of Gunk's. I have re-decided that this project will be my own. In truth, the gun is in excelent shape other than rust. The barells show no dents, not even a ding. I'm sure I will run in to something as I open her up. Besides, I'm the type that needs to know the guts of the thing first hand before I truly trust it.

Thank you especially Jack. I'll be buying those screwdrivers soon. And have no fear Harry and Richard; patience is one of my strong suit's.

Another thing though, are you all agreed that it is a 10 gauge? Am I correct in the serial number given the description of the gun?

Thanks again everyone for your enlightened sensibilities. I'll keep everyone closely informed as I progress.
Sean

I think you can trust the 10ga call if they got the serial number right. The .75" muzzle measurement would support that also I think. When you get the serial number nice and cleaned off you can verify the call on gauge. You'll like the screwdrivers; they're indispensable for working on guns. Get the long and the short handle with them.

Sean: Once you have the driver bits and as you are letting the penetrating oil work on screws, take time to clean out the screw slots of any rust, dirt, dried oil whatever might be in there. A good supply of toothpicks is useful. This is important as the driver bit needs to completely fill the full depth of the slot and side to side as well. The set you buy will have an exact fit and that is the one you need to find for each screw. Once at that point, apply minimal torque. If it doesn't budge, soak some more. It can be hard to avoid the temptation to reef on it just a bit, but that's when you slip and scratch or break a head off.
Post some pics of progress over time. Good luck.
Jack

Go slowly, and ask many questions.

Jack has some great advice on cleaning these old girls up. I had not thought of Gunk.

The gauge could very well be 10. My 1881 12 gauge has .752 bores with about .013 constriction in each barrel. That means that if I were to mic the muzzel it woud tead about .739. My 1881 10 gauge on the other hand has .802 bores with about .030 constriction in each barrel. At first I thought the gun had wide open chokes because I measured them as you have your Parker. A standard 10 gauge has .775 bores and my muzzel measurement was .772! While at the Souther Side by Side Championship several years ago Jent Mitchel measured my bores and revealed the truth. The 10 was a popular gauge back then and they are great fun to shoot. Please keep us up to date as your project continues.

Kindest, Harry

Gotta give credit to Richard Flanders for the Gunk soak but I pass that on to anyone facing rust removal issues. I did pass on in the old site an interesting observation. I placed small parts or groups into individual small locking plastic bags and filled with Gunk and headed off for a month holiday. Upon return, all bags were full of rusty liquid. The forend latch had a delicate lacework of rust that almost duplicated the part floating above it, including the dished-out finger hole. I touched the bag and it all disintegrated. I kicked myself over that, as I had taken so many pics and that rusty lace would have been a neat image.

I didn't swab the gun with Gunk, rather immersed all metal into the liquid, including the barrels. By using small plastic bags and improvised plastic bag sleeve for the barrels, I was able to get by with a small jug of Gunk for the whole job.

The archive seems not to have all the pics in the Second Chance Gun thread. Here's a couple just to give you an idea.

Cheers,
Jack

Hammer group after finally getting the action dismantled
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/cpg1...108603_001.jpg

Soaking in Gunk
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/cpg1...108603_040.jpg

No pics yet of end result but will get to that some day. My New Year's Resolution will be to actually finish one project as opposed to having all sorts of things apart (not just guns) That will surprise my wife and even me

Cheers
Jack

Jack, those don't look too bad at all and should clean up nicely. I'm worried for the outside of the gun though and hope it isn't rust-etched.

I swear I'm enthralled by everyone here. Thank-you's just seem innadiquate.

Upon last evening's revelation that the work can be done by myself, a lot of progress has actually been made. I used Gunk's on the hinge, all bolts and screws, and on the fore end lever. This morning I tested the fore end lever with just finger-strength. It released and I was able to remove the grip plate. She still will not break, but removing that portion has enabled me to directly apply Gunk's to the hinge and cocking hook. I'm hoping this will help in loosening it up.

The serial number is stamped again on the underside of the grip plate. It clearly reads 19698. My previous consern about the serial number can now be put to bed.

I have decided that only finger strength will be used in dismantling the gun. When it comes to the finer screws and plates, I'll be very ginger. I'm tempted to use my finer woodworking tools. I have plastic pry's and small plastic hammers I use to seperate dovetailing and hinges from antique furnature. But have no fear gentlepeople, I shall refrain.:)

My questions at this point are simple. Now that the grip plate is off, is there any better way of removing the barreles? Is there a good way or a bad way? I'm very seriously considering purchasing Brownell's Rust Release for the soaking of all metal parts, post dismantaling. Evidently this product is superb when removing rust from antiques with delicate scroll and filigry. Any experience with this?

Big thanks to you Harry for your gauge post. I'm sure once the barels are removed and the grade is evident we can put this gauge mystery to bed. I have learned a lot from your post. Jack, your pictures are inspiring! I will take some pictures of my recent progress and post them shortly. Perhaps I should start a new post in the Restoration portion of the forum?

Thanks guys, more pictures very soon.
Sean

Is the bottom release lever still frozen or can you push it in?

Richard, the release lever figits just a bit. I push on it, and it will stick inside just a bit, then I have to pull it out. It has roughly a quarter of an inch of play before it sticks. In other words; it has some play but I suspect it is not going all the way inside that it can. I have really only just played with it a bit, just giving the penetrating oil time to digest. I have been loath to set the gun upright and use two hands to break it. At this point I've only had it upside down on the table while dispensing oil on the bottom letting it soak in that direction. I always make sure the oil coats the breach, all hinge points and the release lever. I'm of the mind to wait as long as needed. Thinking to myself that one day it will all magically fall into a beautiful parts-pile.:) Although if you and others are of the mind that it would be safe to be a bit more foreward with it, I suppose I can tinker just a bit more.

I just took more photo's of recent progress, they will be uploaded soon.

Sean