That must be one oversized hinge pin if you used a 3/4" drive extension.

Typo. Sorry. 3/8".

Devcon didn't hold after shooting. Tried 380 Black Max a well. Not luck. Surfaces have been properly cleaned and scuffed gently.

I'll find a micro TIG welder around town have it dealt with that way. I'm only shy about .002" so most of what is added will come back off.

You might check with Al Edge of Old Dominion Firearms. He did some microwelding on a set of hammer gun sears for me and did excellent work for a very reasonable price.

I have only shimmed one shotgun but it turned out great. It was a IJ 16 Gauge Skeeter. It also needed.002 of shim. I did nothing other than shim it and it worked perfect needing nothing else.
I bought a cheap feeler gauge, removed the blade, rolled it over a round bladed screw driver, cut it close to size and then used 3M 1751 2 part adhesive on the shim. Held it in place with a waxed wood dowel clamped for 24 hours.
Once it dryed I cleaned up with a file. A little dab of Mobil 33 grease and it worked and looked great.
1751 is very expensive, but what I had available from a left over aircraft project. I would think a good high strength two part epoxy like JB Weld made for metal would work just about as well.

I've always used a Coke can. I cut it a bit narrow so it can squeeze out if it's too thick. I also use Brad Bachelder - he has a guy who micro welds and then he fits it. Just depends if I feel cheap or want to spend the money [ ususally a $100 or so ]. I've never had any luck trying to glue / epoxy shims on - the stuff never sticks.

Found a fellow who applied a neat and tidy weld yesterday. I tried a can first, and it was too thick. The weld solution will be for the best I think; just take some time to fit it.

The TIG weld worked great and the gun is nicely back on face and operates smoothly.

Now the forend iron is too tight, I expect due to effectively relocating the forend lump. It seems like the rear facing surface now need to shaved slightly, but wanted to check here. Is that the current surface to focus on?

Thanks for your help. This basket case is nearly a basket case no more.

I purchased brass shims from the hardware store in various thicknesses for less than $10.00. Cut a piece the width of the roll about 1/2" long and wrapped it around a punch to get the curve. Put it on the roll and back on face.

Be careful on the forend. It should be snug as this helps maintain a tight on the hook condition when the breech is open. If the forend installs and the latch snaps. Then it needs no attention.