Gents, I knew when I posted the recent update that it would spark some differing views on restore or not to what is an 'honest' gun. While extremly tight and with good case colors remaining (which will not be touched), Brad disclosed to me then when the gun was disassembled they found the wood under the forearm was somewhat punky from oil soaking in over the years and there were the beginnings of some cracks in the stock at the head behind the top tang - which will need to be taken care of. The fix to one of the barrels where at the muzzle end there is a small dent or rather a mish-shaping of the muzzle choke is necessary to bring the choke back to where it was when it left the factory. Any refinish to the stock will be done per period factory finish - which was oil and shellac I believe, also period appropriate. The rust aloing the sides of the rib and the external pitting which will be addressed come not from being an honest gun but from mis-use in the innapropriate storage of the gun for the past 6 years. Brad and I have an understanding which is to not make the gun look new so much as to bring it up to an appropraite period level. When my grandson inherits this nice VHE, he'll have a lifetime of use with it without worry and plenty enough of legacy from 'Papa'. I respect the concerns expressed by Dean and Edgar and those other collectors of these great firearms that we all want to see preserved and protected.

Brad called me today to report that when they pulled the action off the stock, there was a good deal of rust in the mechanics. The springs will have to be replaced and Brad felt it was surprising that the top lever could move at all given the amout of rust. This will all be taken care of after boiling out the entire action/frame but it goes to the point that external looks to these old guns can be very deceiving. Oh, turns out we'll be using Edgar's Hawkins pad as the Silver pads screw holes will not fit the buttstock as well as the Hawkins. (So Edgar, the original Hawkins pad will not be coming back to you.)

Every time I pull the bottom plate off an old Parker, I'm reminded of Marlon Brando's famous line at the conclusion of Apocalypse Now -- "the horror, the horror."

That's right Kensal. Brad indicated that from the looks of the internals, the gun had never been taken apart and cleaned. Good news is only the springs will have to be replaced, everything else inside will clean up fine. What's that they day? You can't judge a bok by its cover". It may have looked to most from the outside, a decent honest gun, but unless you know the history and how previous owners took care of it, I think you play it safe and have a competent smith' like Brad (there are others for sure) tear it down and check everything out. We can't forget that it's not the 60's anymore and these guns are only 30-40 years old, most are more than 80 years old today! They're not indestructible, they wear and tear.

That's the catch basin for all the field chaff and crud.

You know Dean, the irony of all this is the from the pictures previously posted and a visual inspection of the VHE would generally support not 'touching it much'. You just don't know what underlying problems exist with these old guns until to you a detailed takedown and cleaning. And it really helps to have professionals like Brad and others who participate in this forum (as members) and who support the goals and objectives of the PGCA available and working with those of us who want to preserve thes guns for future generations.

It may surprise, but there are a lot of members on this forum, as well as collectors and shooters of other guns, make a regular practise of some degree of disassembly, cleaning and of oiling their guns at the end of the hunting season.

I'd be happy to take a lesson from anyone who knows what they're doing.

If a person is completely honest with himself, he'll know if it's within his capability. The average shade tree mechanic will probably bugger the screws before he knows it.
The best Snap-On screwdrivers can be tossed back in the toolbox. Goes without saying that the Sears tools aren't for this job either. If you're comfortable with fine detailed mechanisms, invest in a quality set of gun smithing screwdrivers from Brownells or Midway. English and European guns have finer screw slots, but if you're only working on your American guns, a good 20 piece set of fixed blade drivers is all you need.
Removing the sear pin isn't necessary for the end-of-season maintenance. Just removing the trigger plate will get you to everything that needs a good rinse and lube. If the hammer springs need to come out, you're better off sending it out.
I have done instrument repair as well as supporting my other hobby of clocks, watches and music boxes. My Land Rovers take an entirely different mind set.
Barrel rusting, dent removal, putting a gun on face; they go out. Even I know when to hand those jobs off to the pros.
If toaster operation and ink cartridge changing is the limits of a persons level of machine work, send it out.

Edgarhas just raised an important aspect of Parker preservation. Maintenance therof.

How about a new section in this Forum that deals with (how to) maintenance of Parkers etc. It might help those Parkerphiles who while maintaining the external features of their doubles routinely may be less familiar or comfortable getting inside the frames etc.