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-   -   Restored DH 10 (https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6688)

LarryAngus 03-23-2012 02:43 PM

Kurt,

You mentioned the screws being buggered up. I bought a set of replacement screws for a future project gun. The heads of the screws are over sized (head lenghth not head diameter or overall length). Any suggestions for for how to uniformly hone the machine screws down to the nice rounded cone that the origninals have?

I would like to do this myself and not have to take them to a smith.

Beautiful restoration BTW.

Kurt Densmore 03-24-2012 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edgarspencer (Post 65681)
Ummmm, I'm struggling with this one.

Sorry....looks like my proof reader was out to lunch. Please change to "dusk"...

Kurt

Kurt Densmore 03-24-2012 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryAngus (Post 65703)
Kurt,

You mentioned the screws being buggered up. I bought a set of replacement screws for a future project gun. The heads of the screws are over sized (head lenghth not head diameter or overall length). Any suggestions for for how to uniformly hone the machine screws down to the nice rounded cone that the origninals have?

I would like to do this myself and not have to take them to a smith.

Beautiful restoration BTW.

Larry, I did the same thing several years ago. They are still setting in a drawer. I am not a machinist and have no metal lathe. I should just give them to Brad.

Kurt

scott kittredge 03-24-2012 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt Densmore (Post 65763)
Larry, I did the same thing several years ago. They are still setting in a drawer. I am not a machinist and have no metal lathe. I should just give them to Brad.

Kurt

just chuck them up in a drill,turn it on and file the back side to lower the screw down until the slots line up and than take some off the top to flush out to floor plate. for dia. do the same with a file. scott

Kurt Densmore 03-24-2012 06:07 PM

Thanks Scott, Sounds like a great idea. After the file what do you use to polish the heads?

Kurt

LarryAngus 03-26-2012 11:38 AM

Shaping and Polishing Screws
 
Regarding loading the screws/bolts in a drill, great idea, you could load them in a press with tape around the threads. The final polishing could be done while loaded in the press or drill with a dremel buffing wheel and the various metal buffing compounds. You can get the compounds in various sticks that vary from abrasive to just polish.

I have used the polishing compounds many times on other restorations, but the drill ides is perfect since you need somthing to make sure the screw or bolt stays steady so as to end up with a uniform cone. I am sure this is just like wood working where patience is the key to get the end result you will like.

Another thought would be to load the screw or bolt in the dremel and steady your hand on the bench placing the shaping tool or sandpaper block in a vice. You don't want to heat the item up so as to scorch it, so slow and steady will be the key. I will try these various methods with the scrap stainless steel screws I have in my stock and let you know how it works out.

Thanks!

John Dallas 03-26-2012 12:25 PM

I'm confused (an icreasingly common phenomenon, these days). I thought the "fat headed" screws were intended to be set in the gun, then marked for indexing, and after cutting off the top of the screw, recutting a slot in the proper orientation.

LarryAngus 03-26-2012 01:40 PM

Scres and bolts
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by John Dallas (Post 65946)
I'm confused (an icreasingly common phenomenon, these days). I thought the "fat headed" screws were intended to be set in the gun, then marked for indexing, and after cutting off the top of the screw, recutting a slot in the proper orientation.

I only have two parkers both Trojans and the bolts which are factory original are not "flat" or even with the surface of the frame, rather tapered even with the frame.

LarryAngus 03-28-2012 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryAngus (Post 65949)
I only have two parkers both Trojans and the bolts which are factory original are not "flat" or even with the surface of the frame, rather tapered even with the frame.

Correction, the trigger plate bolts are flush.

Bill Murphy 05-20-2015 09:33 AM

Some receiver screws on single traps are filed flat.


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