Ejector problems

[Phillip Carr]

I was told today that when a Parker has an ejector problem it is usually always in the forend, and it is almost impossible to repair. I would like some feeback on this, as well as who in the Parker World you would recommend for repairing ejectors problems.
Thanks Phil

[Paul Ehlers]

Most of the ejector mechanism is in the forearm, therefore most ejector problems are in the forearm.

Brad Bachelder works wonders with Parker ejector problems.

[charlie cleveland]

they say jerry andrews is also great with parker ejectors... charlie

[Linn Matthews]

Don't forget DelGrego

[Steve Huffman]

I here some would like to forget the ejectors !!

[Dave Suponski]

Abe Chaber here in CT does wonderful work on Parker ejectors.

[Bruce Day]

I was told today that when a Parker has an ejector problem it is usually always in the forend, and it is almost impossible to repair. I would like some feeback on this, as well as who in the Parker World you would recommend for repairing ejectors problems.
Thanks Phil

Phil, my guess is that you have extractor guns and are weighing the purchase of an ejector gun and are curious about what you might encounter. I am not aware of any truth to the statement you report about "almost impossible to repair".

Phil, in my opinion, there are several causes for ejector problems. The areas of interest: 1. ejector rods in the action, 2. ejector rods through the barrel lug, and 3. ejector mechanism in the forend. As in most Parker problems, gummed up from dried grease and oil is the usual culprit. Assuming 1 and 2 function normally, take out 3 from the wood, its very easy to do, and thoroughly clean. If clean, the usual problem then is worn ejector sears which can happen after extremely long use, and which are easily recut by a good gunsmith, Lawrence Del Grego and Brad Bachelder come immediately to mind and I'm sure there are others as good. I know Del Grego's have plenty of parts.

That said I have some guns with up to 80,000 rounds through them and NO ejector problems that could not be resolved by cleaning. On only one did I have to have sears recut and that was inexpensive.....the postage cost more than the work.

I hear stories about ejector issues, in my experience for what its worth, those stories are overblown. I heavily favor ejectors, I don't want to be digging out shell rims with gloves on, and I feel I am not so fumble fingered as to be unable to put my hand over the breech and catch ejected shells. The market heavily favors ejector guns and Parker Bros heavily favored ejectors also. If you are a target shooter, it probably makes no difference.

However, ejectors do weigh some few ounces more and are a potential though not probable source of problems, and if a person wanted to avoid potential ( again not probable) problems, buy an extractor gun. That will generally limit a buyer to lower grade guns unless they are made pre ejectors.

Anyway, thats my opinion.

[charlie cleveland]

good opinion... charlie

[Phillip Carr]

Thanks for the feedback. I recently purchased the GHE 10 gauge with 36" Ejector barrels I had previously posted about. ( I thought it was a E grade but I bellieve it is a GHE ). Took it out last week and shot a double on Green wing teal, and really like the gun. Unfortunately the right ejector does not even start to eject and the left is very weak. The gun has some issue but I plan on restoring dispite some issues. Looking for feedback as I want to know what I am getting into. Unfortunately there are no recoirds on this gun. It was made in 1920 and sports Special Steel barrels.

[Bruce Day]

Phil, go through the 1, 2, 3 checklist. Do the ejectors lift the shell, fired or not? Have the barrels been re-blued and do the rods through the lugs run smooth? I saw a reblued barrel that had swelled and the rods were binding. Don't be afraid to take the ejector mechanism out of the forend and look at it. If you take the mechanism apart, be careful with the little parts.