Parker 10 Gauge Help

[Tristan Stagg]

I have been the proud owner of this Parker shotgun for several years. Unfortunately I don’t know enough about it. I’ve tried to decipher some of the grading information but I am in over my head. I took it today to a local gun shop to have an appraisal for insurance purposes. He was not able to nail down a value due to not knowing the level of engraving and its subsequent rarity. Through this website I know its an 1890 10 gauge but that’s about it...any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance and if there is information that is not taken care of in the pictures I will do my best to provide it. Further info I measured the barrel, its about 30 ¼ inches long.


Thank You

Tristan

[Tristan Stagg]

I received a private message from a member suggesting I try and show the quality of the bore either mirror like or frosty and pitted. I tried and tried and tried to get a decent picture but to no avail. However both bores to my marginally trained eye have brilliant shine and no signs of pitting. I will try in the morning with natural light to get a decent picture. That is if this freak snow storm ever passes.

Tristan

[scott kittredge]

looks to be a very nice DH grade. i wished i owned it:crying:

[Steve Huffman]

Serial number is in the book as a Grade D3 , Hammerless, no extras ,capped grip,10 gauge,30" barrels. Besides some buggered screws , maybe a touch off face its looks like a nice gun. I wonder what the frame size is it looks smaller than mine. It should be marked on the barrel lug bottom next to the breach. There may be three numbers there which would be the last three in serial we want the other bottom .

[Ed Blake]

Very nice, deep engraving. A good cleaning is all it needs.

[Tristan Stagg]

winplumber.... I'm sorry I am not following you about the additional picture. The frame size near as I can tell is a 3 is that not correct?

Ed Blake: Thank you! Do you have any advice on how to provide a good cleaning? I have a couple dozen guns none of the rest over say 50 years old. I clean them everytime I shoot them and keep them oiled but I don't know how to care for something this old. Maybe there is information on this forum if so I will try and find it.

Thanks again everyone.

Tristan

[Steve Huffman]

Are you saying its a 3 frame from one of the pictures you posted ? I may be wrong (Damn I hate that word) but I thought the frame size is marked on the barrel lug which I dont see in a picture you have.

[Dave Suponski]

Very nice gun...Congratulations

[Jay Gardner]

Great old gun. Not sure how it's done but I have seen metal cleaned with rotten stone and light oil and the results have been excellent. It does not make the metal look new, just clean, and it there are remaining case colors they'll appear.

[Bob Roberts]

Caution! - look again at the picture of the top lever - there is still color under the crud - use nothing abrasive

[Bill Murphy]

The "3" in your picture is not a frame size marking, it is a grade marking. The frame size marking is on the bottom of the rear barrel lug.

[CraigThompson]

IT's getting so now I rarely see an 8 or 10 gauge hammerless Parker I don't like :whistle:

And this one is certainly no exception !

[Tristan Stagg]

First thank you all for your replies and kind words. Hopefully this is the correct picture of the frame size. Also I have a picture of the oval metal plate on the bottom of the stock. What is the purpose of this?


Tristan

[CraigThompson]

First thank you all for your replies and kind words. Hopefully this is the correct picture of the frame size. Also I have a picture of the oval metal plate on the bottom of the stock. What is the purpose of this?


Tristan

On any of the guns I have with a plate there or have seen , were typically engraved with initials .

[Tristan Stagg]

I think I have provided the correct picture now...if not let me know and I will give it another whirl...thank you

Tristan

The "3" in your picture is not a frame size marking, it is a grade marking. The frame size marking is on the bottom of the rear barrel lug.

[CraigThompson]

I think I have provided the correct picture now...if not let me know and I will give it another whirl...thank you

Tristan

The frame size of your gun is a #3 as you have surmised .

[Ed Blake]

In regards to cleaning surface crud off metal, use Hoppes #9. Wipe on and let soak in. A soft toothbrush will get the loosened dirt out of the engraving and other crevices. A needle will clean out screw heads. Wipe the barrels down as well. A little elbow grease will do wonders. Don't mess with the screws if you don't have the correct screwdrivers. Someone h as in the past and you see the result.

[Pete Lester]

Beautiful gun. Not too many years ago it would have been considered only fit for hanging on a wall or limited to use with black powder shells. So much has been learned in the last ten years or so about the viability of composite barrels with nitro powders and many of these guns have returned to be regularly used in the field. If you hunt big birds, turkey or goose or hunt in situations where long shots are taken, ducks over big water or crows you will find out just how special a 10 bore is. Do not think shooting a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 ounce load out of a 10ga is the same as shooting it out of a 12ga, it is not. I am now approaching 1000 birds killed with the short ten, mostly crows and some ducks and geese. I have stood next to another member on here and watched him shoot just as many. The 10 is a significant step up in performance from any 12. As a wingshooter it will give you a lot of "wow" moments. If you are interested in shooting your gun get your barrel walls measured for thickness and if they are in good shape head over to the reloading forum here on the PGCA and start reading all the threads related to loading for and shooting the 2 7/8" 10ga. If you like wingshooting and you haven't used this gun yet you are going to have a lot of fun.

[Mark Landskov]

Nice gun! As mentioned, use Hoppe's No. 9, no abrasives! Bronze wool, brass toothbrushes and a brass scraper will take off any rust without removing any remaining bluing or patina. Don't be in a rush. It took decades to age the gun. Don't try to refresh it too quickly! Enjoy!

[Jerry Harlow]

I still like the edge of a copper penny rubbed on those little spots of rust to level and take them out. It does no damage but will remove the little spots that one finds here and there. Leaves copper behind which just wipes off, but you be the judge. Don't get carried away.

[Richard Flanders]

Nice gun! I really like the floor plate birds. The buggered screws could be fixed pretty cheaply and it looks like it deserves that to me. I sure wouldn't use anything beyond Hoppes on the metal. Start with round toothpicks to clean out the screw slots and any corners and grooves and nooks and crannies that are filled with hardened old oil and crud. They work especially all along the sides of the ribs. They won't ever damage any metal. A bit of Wrights Silver Cream will clean up that oval plate on the bottom of the stock.

[Tristan Stagg]

Thank you all for the advise...I am on shift the next two days but I know what Im going to do on my days off....give this old gem the tender care she deserves! If I can get her shined up I will post picks maybe on Sunday keep the advice an knowledge coming I'm all ears!

Thank you all

Tristan